To be honest, I wasn't really a fan of Markus Lupfer's work at the beginning : yes, his sweaters were fun and original, but to the say the least, they were mainly ... well, sweaters : not exactly something feminine and elegant. But when I discovered his Resort and Summer 2011's collections, I was genuinely awed by the evolution. From humour and nonconformism, Markus has transcended his clothes into a real ready to wear level, and he is now playing in the big league.
The German born designer juggles with the codes in those two collections. Lightness seems to be his main idea, with soft material, sometimes transparent, and there is preciosity in the details : pearls, flounces, fringes.
But still, there is harshness in the details, something fiercier than just some white skirts and cute cardigans. There, it is a wild stroke of dark blue paint, here a belt a bit rebellious, also some taunting lips or a girafe which cheeks you, showing that the designer didn't lose his sense of humour. Markus Lupfer also turned a slogan t-shirt into something really posh, almost Parisian : Sinner or Saint, you choose your side, full stop. The use of those religious concepts can be directly linked to his colleague J.W. Anderson's rings Saint and Assassin. But the only thing that could kill you in Lupfer's world is desire. Indeed, his collections are extreamely desirable. Of course, with those rainy, windy and cold days, you are in trance each time you are seeing summer clothes, but there is something more here.
Markus Lupfer has succeeded in creating the perfect basics such as the above dresses. The colours too are perfectly chosen. The dark blue first, in light strokes it is sensual and acute, in total look it is strong and elegant, a perfect answer to black. I have a personal crush for the fourth sweater dress in the first picture : it is at the same time casual and very attractive. The old-fashioned prints reminds of Alexander McQueen's recents collections, without the grandmother's tapestry effect.
Nude is here too, spiced up with interesting textures and gold. Here again, the use of the classic leopard print is regenerated into something new and fresh. The skirt in the girafe's outfit is gorgeous with its small pompoms.
Also, the first Men's collection of Markus has to be emphasized : it is punkish and promising. It is certain : Markus Lupfer is one of the great vintages of year 2011. I think it would be sharp to put him in your shopping list ...
http://www.markuslupfer.com/
http://www.matchesfashion.com/
http://www.net-a-porter.com/
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