Tribute : Corsets are Eternal

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While researching for a fashion article, about to be published in the magazine I'm working for, I've been led to the city of Bar-le-Duc, in the east of France, on the tracks of that famous piece of underwear, the corset. While discussing with a couple of Haute Couture's designers, Alida é Pierre, I've realized that I knew little on corsets, their history and their place in today's world, so I've decided to make this quick and humble article in order to share with you my finds.

Corset through time : an history of hourglass figure

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 Indeed, corsets weren't existing in Antiquity as the underwear we now know. They were belts and bandages used by women and sometimes men to narrow their waist. In the above statue of the Minoan Snake Goddess (approximately 2000 B.C.), you can see what was called a mitré. In Ancient Egypt, the ephod was a belt-corselet with shoulder pads, while Roman women used fasciae, pieces of fabric of different use (for example, one was used as a chastity belt). In the Middle Age, around 1300 in France, we could find something called the sorquanie, the equivalent of a coat of mail. But we have to reach the 15th century to discover the underwear we're now familiar with. It was popularized by queen Catherine of Medicis as an Italian trend. Made of fabric and whalebones, it soon becames the main underwear of elegant french ladies at the royal court. The basquine or vasquine was laced up on the front, while the gourgandine was laced on both sides. It's said that the queen prefered steel corsets covered with velvet. It was very criticized by the intellectuals and the doctors, especially for the damages it does on the body. The splints, especially, were condamned. These medical pieces of wood or metal were hurting flesh very badly. Hopefully, in the 19th century, corsets became more "livable". The lacing known as "the lazy lacing" was helping women to lace up their corsets without any help. In 1831, the Swiss Jean Werly settles in Bar-le-Duc and open a factory to developp his idea of a seamless corset, made with looms. But the process didn't make a great success and soon, corsets are only used for medical use, as my great-grandmother did.

"Corps"(bodies) set to luxury 

Leopolds Prockett on Deviantart

Nowadays, when googling "corset", your computer's screen would be soon invaded by millions of colourful corsets. How is it possible, in a world where the Sexual Revolution happened years ago ? What happened to the lessons of Coco Chanel, and to the feminists ? Why, in a world where technology and the raise of level of life improved our conception of comfort, women want to constrain themselves again ? Hourglass figures are not really an epitome of beauty anymore, now we are mostly celebrating those tall creepers of models, without breasts and hips. So, could the corset be a way to fight against these slim silhouettes ? A way for females with figures to show that they are still sexy ? I think so, especially when I see Christina Hendricks, especially famous for this, posing for New York Magazine in a white simple corset. Most of the women interested by this vintage underwear want to give an alternative to the mainstream vision. Plus, it gives a notion of luxury, of refinement to a wardrobe. It's not the classic underwear, it's something more sensual, even a bit daring. As a result, corset is often seen (and confused) in S.M. and brothels-related situations, two subversive sexualities that are slowly assimilated to fashion and modern lifestyle. Then, the object of conservatism becomes an object of provocation and even of liberation ... And according to designers Alida é Pierre, it's not even for women : men also are learning to wear it. So, corsets are not prudish or medical anymore, but a real accessory of fashion, an assert of an independant lifestyle or simply, a little pleasure we're offering to ourself.

Christina Hendricks for New York Magazine

 Muse of the designers

Jean-Paul Gaultier Campaign 2012

Since the end of the 20th century, corsets are back in the world of fashion, thanks to icons such as Madonna, Lady Gaga, or Rihanna ... The most famous and acclaimed designers have used them in their collections, in their usual shape or by embezzling them. I'm thinking to Alexander McQueen Spine Corset or to the corset belts ( see Bottega Veneta for example or Gucci ). Of course, the real afficionado of the famous underwear is French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier who uses it regularly ( one of the most famous pieces is the skeleton one wore by stripteaser Dita Von Teese at one of his show). Designers are inspired by history too. Karl Lagerfeld, for its Fendi Fall 2009's collection, created a corset of brown leather very similar to the sorquanie, while Alida é Pierre recreated the Catherine of Medicis' steel corset. Much more comfortable than what it seems !
But the classic corsets of fabric (and most often with lace) can be found at any range of prices, from luxury website Net-à-porter.com to more mainstream retailers, and in specialized designers' websites ( for example French La Corseterie or La Fée corsetée, and brands Bordelle and Agent Provocateur in the UK ). A world full of possibilities for those who want to be sexier for someone or just for themselves ...
I feel a bit less idiot on the subject now ( and I hope this article was useful for you too, who knows ?) but I don't think I could wear one. Corsets belts, however, are really aesthetic and bring a very chic touch to an outfit, even casual. So, if like me, you're a bit claustrophobic, it's the good idea.

Agent Provocateur on Net-a-porter.com

Alida é Pierre

I truly encourage you to visit the amazing website of Alida é Pierre : http://www.alidaepierre.fr (in French only, but pictures don't need a translator ).

Trend : Shanghai Ladies

Rita Hayworth and Orson Welles in The Lady from Shanghai (1947)

 The charms of the past would never stop seducing the Fashion world. Thanks to Joan Harris, the 60s silhouettes are back, with their curves and their vitally kitsch dresses, hairdos and stilettos. Since then, the image fashion guru's want for the 21st century's women is quite arguable. While some are thinking that androginity is the future for human being, many people are trying to reassert the right to an assumed feminity. For these women, the post WWII's wardrobe is what suits them the best. Actually, it is genuinely elegant, cute and feminine. But Past has got its negative points too, and we did a long way since then, especially in term of social and sexual progress. Living in our modern world with pencil skirts and corsets is only appealing in the paper ... So, we need to search another model for our thrist of classic feminity.

Gene Tierney in The Shanghai Gesture (1941)

 I don't know what Marc Jacob had in mind when he launched the Summer collection of Louis Vuitton, but he certainly has felt that the fashion's wind was now blowing from the east. But, fortunately, the trend avoided the trap of the geishas' aestheticism and rather chose a vision of the woman which was more free. On the bounce of the American designer, the fashion world is heading to a city which is, in our westerner's mind, a synonymous with exoticism, sensuality and luxury : Shanghai. But the Shanghai which inspires Industry this Fall is the Shanghai of the classic black and white movies of the 40s. Indeed, the aestheticism chosen is very old-world, nearly cliché, with a lot of red silk, dark floral patterns and jazzy influences.

Gene Tierney

 The muses I suggest are American actresses Rita Hayworth and Gene Tierney. They have both played in movies with Shanghai in the title, the first one in The Lady from Shanghai (the presence of the Chinese city here was just a way to add mystery to her character) and the second one in The Chinese Gesture. If you are familiar with this one, you would agree that, first, Gene should certainly have deserved more recognition, and secondly, that her costumes, created by her husband and famous American designer Oleg Cassini, were not particularly chinese ... So, why emphasizing them in an article on Shanghai's fashion ? Because they embody the spirit of this Fall Chinese's influence. It's totally out of the question to bring back the traditional Chinese dresses. Mainly because Industry is looking for Chinese buyers, who want novelty, but at the same time, something that would reassure them  ... So, what they want is to instill the preciosity and the discreet eroticism of Asia's biggest country into contemporary and western garments.

Saffron Knight AW2011 collection

 This way, they offer us exoticism within our reach and to Chinese buyers, a taste of classic Hollywood which would fit their own codes. Clever, isn't it ?
The new Shanghai ladies are Amazons, they are lounge's warriors, with an independence and an intelligence similar (if not superior) to men, with seduction as their secret weapon. They are both sensible, like Elsa in The Lady from Shanghai and Poppy in The Shanghai Gesture, but terribly unreachable and almost living godesses. Many designers and brands have already played with those codes in their Fall collection. The one of Jamaican-British designer Saffron Knight is particularly accomplished. Very far from her usual style, this collection marry tradition and a cheeky modernity with success. The Dragon-lady is not dead ...

Topshop header for its collection 'Shanghai'

 The Shanghai collection from Topshop is less convincing. It's more difficult to recognize the Chinese influences in the offered garments, which are sometimes more Japanese than Chinese ... Looks like geography and fashion are still not studied in the same schools ... But some pieces remain in the spirit we've talked about. And I guess that we will see more interesting stuff in the next months ...
My personal pick would be a dress from the Fall catalogue of French online retailer 3Suisses, which offers a sexy silk dress (avaible in Chinese-like print or trendy colours) for only 29,90 euros (which is £25,90 and almost $42). This dress is genuinely in the mood of those classic 40s movies, full of exoticism and of strong heroines. The perfect answer to the desperate housewives of last year. Plus, there is travel with your past ...

3Suisses dress 29,90 euros, avaible in many European and foreign countries

http://www.3suisses.fr
http://www.topshop.com
http://www.saffronknight.me.uk

Decoding : Cute Overdose

A facebook group found out freaky similarities between a Disney wedding and those of William and Kate

 Most of the people I met think that I am no fun. They say that I didn't kept my children's soul because I don't know by heart the song of the opening credits of the Japanese cartoon I've watched when I was a child. They say that I am a cold heart because I ask them to stop sending me YouTube videos of kittens while at work. And they call me an alien because I have main interests and joys different from them. As you can see, in our modern society, grown-ups still behave like kids in the freaking sandbox ... In France, the phenomenon is clearly visible with people in their thirties, and I've observed some similarities while in the USA too. They seem to suffer from the Peter Pan's syndrome : they refuse to enjoy themselves like adults, so they keep doing kids activities, using kids references and most importantly, dressing with kids accessories, this, past twenty. Is this one of the symptoms of the 11th September's trauma ? I think it is rather a new response to the punk "No Future". But while punks were sinking into sex, drugs and good music, this new generation prefers sweets, teddy bears and facebook groups. Harmless ? I'm not sure. But irritating, definitely.

T-shirt Uniqlo £7,99 - Necklace Vivienne Westwood 220euros - Shoes Jeremy Scott for Adidas $250

The day Kate told "yes" to William, I was quite happy. Everyone was behind its TV, and I could enjoy my city, being the only one outside and not obsessed by a wedding that didn't touch me at all. But the avalanche catched me up the following days with intensive press coverage and, above all, web invasion. Oh yes, they were cute, love is great, the princesses had ridiculous hats ... People around the world were acting as if this event was personal to them, calling the bride "Kate" as if she was a close friend. It was an earth-scale version of  movie Muriel, without the good tunes of ABBA. Yes, see, I like joyful music. But I must miss the namby pamby allele on my female chromosome, perhaps the same one which prevents me to like heels ( see my article I'm not Cinderella ), because I don't do idiot little cries when I see a baby or an animal. Something you're now told to do in every fashion magazine that respects itself. Really.
As everything mainstream, the "Cute" quickly became a good tank of inspiration for fashion, and some designers have started to suffer from the syndrom, or mostly, to think that idiots would be delighted to buy their regressive creations. It is certainly the case of Jeremy Scott, who even admits that creating his teddy bears sneakers was the dumbest ideas he had. But thanks to the trend of wearing kids' toys as fashion accessories, he will make a fortune without any regret. Many others were precursors, Moschino and Sonia Rikyel, for example, which quickly assumed a change for exhilarating fluo colours and  models acting like little girls.

Paul&Joe : jacket 295euros, lipstick 21,65euros

But the Golden Palm at Cannes Festival would certainly go this year to the childish prints. Mickey is struting about in both Uniqlo and Topshop, with many of his closest relatives. But now that everyone has got the new book of Jonathan Safran Foer on the bedside, the supreme IT is to show love for animals. Forget about the fuddy-duddy of wearing sweaters with horses designs ! But you will be even trendier with lobsters and penguins in your tees and scarves, signé Charlotte Taylor. The cat is a sure value : it always will be cute. So, brand Paul&Joe was certain to make a hit with their lipstick in shape of the pet. Adorable, admittedly, but how stupid when you have to use it and the cat disappears ? As usual, consumerism didn't stop to strike ... But you don't only wear animals as prints, you also have to wear them as accessories themselves ! The trend has been launched in the catwalks, where models started walking their dogs. Then Natalia Vodianova carried a lamb for lingerie brand Etam. And then again, the escalation couldn't be stopped. On the cover of the magazines, you cannot see the girl without the beast, not dangerous anymore. Even Robert Pattinson showed that gators were cute, and Bulgari offered a big cuddly toy to its new muse Kirsten Dunst ... If Givenchy and Wildfox are still trying to sell drooling fangs, they are totally out of the time. The wild animal inside us has been tamed and it is now as peaceful and sweet as a lamb.

Moschino 683euros

It is not great anymore to be rock : the skulls start to become fun, as for jeweller Aurélie Bidermann, and we'd rather take the sweet necklaces of our childhood out again, because they're the new studs !
Smileys, peace signs, cheerful messages are blooming everywhere, and even the Queen of protest, Vivienne Westwood, have teddy bears in her Summer 2011 collection ! Suddenly, we are all told to dress like Katy Perry and to live on Sesame Street  ! I know that the world is scary, my dears. But I don't think that spending your evenings and nights watching series could help when you're desperately single. Same, I don't think that losing your time watching YouTube videos of pandas could solve your problems of unemployment, neither a t-shirt could fight your angst of nuclear disaster, even made by the interesting label Mother of Pearls. And don't kid yourself : if the richest prescribers of the world are showing you cats with bags, it is not a way for them to bring you something cute and relieving : it is because they are taking advantage of your need for reassurance. Did you see the price of the items shown in this article ? Except for the t-shirt, everything is so indecently expensive. Stella McCartney has taken her last collection directly from your childhood wardrobe and she tries to sell it for a fortune. Blog The Fashion Police ( http://www.thefashionpolice.net/ ) has found a very appropriate expression for that : Daylight Armed Robbery.

V Magazine

Yes, my children, while you are dreaming that you could live forever in your wonderland of childhood references and dreams, the nasty capitalists out there are still planning to eat you in the wood when you will take honey to your grandmother ... And if no t-shirt could repels the troubles of the adulthood, they are also good things about growing up. Believe Aunt Sammy ...
So, put away your Barbies and start looking for them ...

Mother of Pearls

A girl, a style : Tank Girl

 These days, I'm a bit tired of the girls I see in the magazines and in the streets. They are all replicas of each others, with stripes, colours and vintage clothes. Conversely, some prefers a rock attitude, implying the addiction to some very trendy brands which have little to do with rock but with a clever marketing, such as The Kooples or Zadig&Voltaire. I didn't want to focus on one of those grunge trainee, and suddenly, I've thought about the comic's heroine, Tank Girl. This odd creature was created by Jamie Hewlett and Alan Martin at the end of the 80's. Set in a post-apocalyptic world, the comic focus on a nonconformist (it's the very least you can say...) tank pilot (hence her name, Tank Girl) whose adventures are mostly absurd, but hilarious. Now, Hewlett takes care of music band Gorillaz, and his punk heroine has quite fallen to oblivion. But her unique style still influence many indie girls, and could seriously kick the ass of all the punk-wanabees out there, starting with Taylor Momsen : Girl, dressing with black underwear is not original and cool as you suppose, so at least, put a mischievous smile on your drunkard head ...

Boots Nicolas Andreas Taralis £705 - Jean Eleven Paris 89euros - Sweater AllSaints £63

As a resident of an Australian desert, Tank Girl is not really keen on covering clothes, but she sometimes slips on tees and sweaters. If she would make some shopping, I'm sure she would fall for British designer Eudon Choi, whose designs seem to fit a post-apocalyptic world a la Luis Royo, another artist who could have a fresh influences on all those neo-punks. I also imagine that Tank Girl would not resist to the clothes of brands Obesity&Speed (they have an hilarious t-shirt with 70s former punk goddess Poly Styrene, and many other destroy garments), DimePiece (I'm in love with their collars, slightly less with their shipping costs) or French brand Eleven Paris, whose ambassadors are Lizzy Jagger, daughter of Mike, and Zoe Krawitz, daughter of Lenny, two potential Tank girls.

Charm Helen Ficalora $35 - Bra Urban Outfitter 24euros - Belt Boy London $8 on Ebay - Short Bitching&Junkfood 72euros - Boots AllSaints £185 - Watch La Mer Collections $198

But, most of the times, Tank Girl is hanging out with crosses taped on her boobs, or if she wants to be a bit classier, in some dark bras. She howled with laughter when she saw Katy Perry's video California Gurls, because, obviously, rockets bras are outweighing chantilly cream bottles ones ... For the bottom, she would certainly fancy a legging by Aguri Sagimori, but her preference would mostly head for a destroyed jean short, such as those of Evil Twin. Also, she is a bit fetishistic when it comes to crosses, and jewels in general. She has got a lot of them, badges, bangles, rosaries, and she would certainly love the cuffes and belts of Givenchy by Riccardo Tischi and the bullets pendants of Akillis. And if she wanted to be a bit sexy for her boyfriend Booga, she could puts fake suspenders panty hoses by Henry Holland.

Ellery Fall 2011

A tank is definitely classier than a motorbike, but if you would like to channel your inner Rebecca Buck (her real name) in a colder country, you would adopt the brand Ellery, which made a very appealing campaign for its Fall collection. A bit too aristocratic for Tank Girl though, but she would steal the  belts for sure. She would also kidnap Britney Spears and forces her to give her the Burberry Prorsum jacket she's wearing in her latest video, Liv Tyler, for her Givenchy dog sweater and obviously Kate Lanphear, for her integral wardrobe. I guess she would also appreciate the editor's do. Singer Cassie and Brit It girl Alice Dellal have also tried the Tank Girl's hairdo, in a more feminine version. Alice, incidentally, would be a recommended cast for the role of Tank Girl in a movie (one which doesn't suck, as the previous attempts did), much more than Ellen Page, as some geeks have suggested.

Alice Dellal

Courtney Love and Kate Moss have their adepts, so why not Tank Girl ? At least, her attitude is much more real and funky than all those IT girls who think that wearing a dark tee at the last MTV Push Party with CK One would make you a rock star. Neither does a Schott jacket, even a great red one. First, it is in the head. In the freedom of your thought. That's why a look at the Tank Girl's comic could not kill you (remastered edition from £6,48 at Amazon.co.uk). Alcohol and drugs could, however, so remember that you're not a comic heroine.

http://www.obesityandspeed.com
http://www.elevenparis.com
http://dimepiecedesigns.com
http://www.allsaints.com
http://www.urbanoutfitters.com
http://www.elleryland.com
http://www.layerslondon.com
http://www.shopbop.com

Shopping : Zen Garden

Ring Gaia Repossi for Zadig&Voltaire 320euros - Gareth Pugh Fall 2011 - Pendant Kenneth Jay Lane $132 - Blayde £488 (click to enlarge)

To fight the stress of our modern world with all the angsts related to modernity (nuclear power stations, airwaves, planes, traffic jams, Suri Cruise and other children ...) and the frenzy of the fashion Industry which drives many people to burnouts (Galliano, Decarnin, Lohan...), some people have found a solution. We all saw Diane Von Furstenberg doing her yoga in Le Jour d'Avant of Loic Pringent. Likewise, Karl Lagerfeld never seems so zen now he is almost ubiquitous, the Beckhams, Kate Bosworth, Miranda Kerr and Naomi Watts have all turned to Buddhism and many celebrities are lauding the return to nature and to a more spiritual life. Don't kid ourselves, most of them are doing that to give themselves a most mysterious, intellectual side. But the idea is there and it never sounds that good. 

Bangles Chan Luu 175euros - Bangle All Saints £45 - Kimono jacket Zara 79,90euros - Skirt Topshop £35 - Top Topshop £38

Minimalism carries on fascinating designers, even if they prefer luxury and colours this season. But some of them are thinking in another direction : it is the case of New Yorkers Donna Karan who have launched an intermediate collection called "Urban Zen" and Michael Kors who created minimalistic zen shoes. Both Gareth Pugh and Haider Ackermann have been inspired by Asian soft kimonos and we can find many loose-fitting items in shops. So, if you wish to bring some Zen in your life and in your wardrobe, here are some tips ...  

Dress Mango 129euros - Donna Karan Urban Zen collection

One of the most famous exercise of Chinese gymnastics, Qi Gong, is called Baduanjin, which can be translated by the Eight Pieces of Brocarde. Brocade is incidentally a luxurious fabric, so the connection between Zen and fashion is not only a fancy of the mind ... If you think that kimonos are too clichés, or too much related to geishas, choose large and soft garments, preferably of soft colours related to stone and sand, the two key elements of a zen garden. Orange is trendy, but for meditation, leave it to Buddhist monks, because you will have more chance to look like a convict at Pelican Bay ... You can also find many stone washed blouses, t-shirts and dresses, to continue the metaphor. Topshop has got a lot of great nude items that fit both bohos (it's the 70s revival) and our purpose.   

Brook&Lyn $352 - Maison Michel for Opening Ceremony $975

On the side of the accessories, flats have definitely their place in the fashionista's wardrobe and stones are still very present. The star of the season is turquoise, but I've chosen more natural examples. Californian brand Chan Luu, the darling of celebrities, drew its inspiration from Buddhist prayers' bangles, while online retailer Shopbop offers a range of stone jewels and accessories of great originality, such as the body roped necklaces of Brook&Lyn. More zen, you die and the price is also a small death. If you think that stones and ropes are not worth so much money, you would prefer the collection of Monaco jeweller Gaia Repossi, which reminds of Native American dreamcatchers. Nature is international, and the more important is the interior peace those items bring you.   

Just Female 75euros - Paolo Errico 450euros

Now, you are ready. You've got an ethereal silhouette, gracious gesture, a free mind. You can do what you want, draw lines in the sand, cut a bonsai, do tai chi, sunbath at Coachella, ... Talking of music, I could have chosen something from Chinese or Japanese music, but I will take something more rock from my stock. No, not the Rolling Stones, but the idea is here ...

Trend : Fieldtrip

 Spring is finally here, if not in your country, at least, it is in the shops. Flowers are invading all the departments, and not only in the garden center. Flower prints everywhere, the worst nightmare of persons who hate them, persons like me. I like flowers, but in their natural environment, nature. And very a propos, what makes me smile the most is the main theme of Spring/Summer 2011. The beach is out, exotic countries too. No, from upscale magazines to the most posh brands, the trendy place to be seems to be ... countryside. No cows, no haystack, but it is nearly here. The Chanel's campaign picnics in an orchard, in those of John Lewis, it's teatime in a gazebo and many others choosed a vegetal background. This Spring, we will all move from cities to the pastures ...

Dress Rodarte Fall 2011 (Style.com) - shoes Alexander McQueen Spring 2011 (Style.com ) - cuff Aurélie Biedermann 375 euros - earrings Honorine Jewels 780 euros

Other brands and designers went further in the "Back to the Garden"'s theme. The D&G woman looks like a real countrygirl and even the very elegant Valentino launched a limited collection called "Garden Party". The clothes of that line have got a very romantic print which reminds watercolours. For the accessories, straw is the key material ( real or imitation ) : bags and especially hats, such as Stetson's. The fields are an unlimited source of inspiration, as wheat is honoured by many designers : Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton of course, but also in jewellery and in the Fall collection of Rodarte, the brand which turns up.

T-shirt Lila Hudson at Pixie Market $137 - eye shadow Shu Uemura £16 - bag Valentino 980 euros - necklace Marion Godart 45 euros - headband Topshop £4

Why this sudden attraction for the countryside ? Is it a reference to the Original Garden, the garden of Eden ? Is it a wish of fertility after crisis times ? Or, modeled after those celebrities, actresses, designers and models such as Natalie Portman, Cameron Diaz, Gisele Bundchen and Stella McCartney, who proclaim their "green attitude" ? At all events, green is the new black. In many catwalks, models were wearing grass-green eye shadow ( Dior, Loewe, Alberta Ferretti ). Flowers are the It accessories, as headbands or necklaces, but also fruits and various plants such as clover.

Red dress Carolina Herrera Spring 2011 (Style.com) - dress Simeon Farrar £210 - ring Topshop £12,50

Last year, Miu Miu was the first to use the swallow as a print. Now, the iconic bird of Spring is everywhere, even in my garden ( those 5 cute little fellows in the picture above were photographed by me )and soon, all the animals of the contryside would be well reprensented too. But I will raise objections against cows. I HATE cows, so please, don't put them everywhere.
All those clothes, accessories and pictures are tempting us, and at Vogue Paris, Emmanuelle Alt and her team have realized our dreams of liberty and nature with their photoshot with Gisele, in pure white on a country road ... So, like Joni Mitchell, let's go down to Yasgur's Farm, join a rock'n'roll band, camp out on the land and set our soul free ...

Decoding : "Talonted" !



All Saints (£155 and £175)



In the past, we used to do the curtsey : this exercise was first a social sign for respect, but also a good way to show your grace and excellent deportment. Now, it is obsolete, and quite regrettable and not only for the daily gymnastics it forced you to do, but because it would be a quite convenient way to admire our peers' shoes. Indeed, shoes are now a powerful part of an outfit, and customers are getting more and more daring with what they choose. But, face it, it is a pity to wear extravagant shoes because you're incuring the risk of them being ignored. Except if we reintroduce curstey ... And then, your fruity Charlotte Olympia would never been missed again ! But when it comes to the heel, this smart idea is finding its limits.

Jeffrey Campbell (I Don't Like Mondays, out of stock) - Alexander McQueen (price on demand)

In French, le talon. Hence the title, a pun with "talented". The heel is designers' new whim for some seasons. The most famous examples are of course the creations of Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, but slowly, the heel is starting to become one of the most important part of an outfit. Is it a new "Follow me, young man" ? Or just a fantasy that doesn't really survive the transfer from the catwalks to the streets ? Why spending so much work and attention in a part which is not clearly visible ? That sounds like an excessive luxury. But heels have been a strong symbol of feminity for ages. Stilettos are a weapon of sensuality. It is very simple : a sexy curve and a sense of power, due to the threat of the point. So, sculpted, finely-worked heels have got a meaning too. They are all extremely solid, even monolithic. If stilettos were associated with knives, those remind of guns grips ! But they are pacific, and their message seems to be "Art not War" ! 

Rodarte (Style.com) - Meadham Kirchhof (Stylerookie)





















The heel is a new way to express the talent of a designer. They can do what they want with it, treating it like a real medium for their artistic sense. Scuplted in wood or metal, it can be minimalistic, such as a contemporary sculpture. Some prefers it more baroque, and imitates the stucco of the architecture Grand Siècle. With gold, it turns luxuous, with sequins, it gets pop. Ralph Lauren prefered silver, Christian Dior worked it in the way of a Art Déco glass-blower. Everything is possible. But is Art the only meaning of those complicated heels ? It is also a statement, a way to show your uniqueness in a world of mainstream culture and production at grand-scale. Yes, women still want to be sexy. But they also want to be remarkable.
As for me, you know I'm not a great defender of heels, but I appreciate the effort, as a strong supporter of art. But I still can't picture myself perched on those things.

Trend : Vitamin your Style

Gucci S/S 2011 ad

My active readers would think that I am wittering on because I've already made articles on that subject ( see Rainbow Warriors and another one, "I am a Giant Bubble Gum"). But Saturday evening, while I was at Somerset House for Vodafone London Fashion Weekend, I was particularly stricken by the violent revival of colours, and how people had the audace of wearing outfits mixing them. Of course, it was specially visible on the collections of the present designers ( here, allow me to heart Mark Fast ) but it was really remarkable on the women around me. The days before, I was in France, and here, everyone is clad in black. A street in Paris looks like the painting of Emile Friant "All Saints'Day" and photographers are forced to change their adjustements if they want to add contrast to their work. Depressing. Parisians, and French people in general, need an urgent extreme make-over, because their neighbours of Great Britain are already in Springtime.

Kurt Geiger S/S 2011 ad

 In Kensington, the cherry trees are in bloom, as well as the store windows. Those of Bond Street are as vitamined as the stalls of a greengrocers, and let me tell you IT FEELS GOOD ! I love black, grey and white, but it's time to show we are alive, not bereaved. The summer campaign of Dolce & Gabbana, for example, with its Italian mammas makes me feel black, I mean, blue ... Throw your black lace, it is time for a come-back of joy, that excitement they had in the 20s, 30s, 60s and 70s. Listen to the music back then : that was joyful ! I feel this spirit when I see the clothes of Gucci's S/S collection. Their colours are amazing and wake up the pages of every magazine ( except Katy Perry in the cover of Elle, I don't know why but she succeeded in fading the clothes she's wearing ... ).

Topshop.com

 And the Italian brand is not the only one to rock the accumulation of colours. The catwalks were full of them. I won't repeat my previous articles, but for the new readers, let's quote Jil Sander. The advertisements are also more funky, and not only because the smiles are back ( Sportmax, Kurt Geiger, Versace ) and on the catwalks, the actresses have launched a real battle between colour blocks and nude. For the Oscars, my votes go to Scarlett Johansson and Jennifer Lawrence. And it's the easiest trend to follow : you can easily buy great pieces at low prices, as a very simple tee with a catchy colour will make the best effect on every outfit. Brands such as Topshop, Jaeger and Wallis are offering a wide choice of bright-coloured basics.

Hairstyling at Meadham Kirchoff S/S 2011 show ( copyright unknown )

 And on the side of beauty, colours are also omnipresent : be bold with your make-up, but also with your hair. You can dare the splash of colour a la Altuzarra or the total glam rock hairdo inspired by Meadham Kirchoff.
A special mention for the trend of the fruits prints : a more direct way to claim your dose of vitamins ! I who generally avoid prints, I am seduced by the oranges, the bananas and the citrus of Stella McCartney, Prada and Moschino Cheap and Chic. Fashion is, this season, the only place where you can choose both natural and chemical products, without risks for your health ! I don't know you, but I, I will not deprive myself and pick both up again !

Haider Ackermann S/S 2011 ( Style.com )

bag Karen Millen

Stella McCartney dress worn by Freja Beha Erichsen in Vogue Paris

Trend : Restraining Order

Hermes SS2011 Style.com

***First of all, my apologies for the lack of articles the previous week : I wrote for magazines instead, with a lot of meetings and work. But now, back to my personal business.***

 The other day, I stumbled accross Rihanna's new video and my first thought have been "Ouch!". Not because I caught a flick of her whip, but because I was thinking about that theory which says that ridicule doesn't kill. For a girl who's got a lot of bad publicity because of a former abusive boyfriend, I don't think it is very pertinent to release a song and video which scream "OH PLEASE HURT ME!" ... Well, I guess this is just my point of view, and that she mainly wanted to criticize the ambiguous relationship between an artist and medias, this without being familiar with the concept of subtlety ... But I also caught all the references to David LaChapelle and spotted a Fleet Ilya's belt when she walks her 50s milkman-dog. Wait a minute. Is it me or the brand seems to have got a strong connivance with the all-of-a-sudden dominatrix singer, and also with the whole Industry ? Does this latter need a whiplash after crisis ?

Hermes SS2011 Style.com

 For many decades now, women have been liberated, thanks to the magazines and designers. Decades of freedom to work, to have sex when you want, to wear what you want and to live how you want. How exhausting ! But Industry is so caring it has developped products which would ease our angsts of free bitches ... I guess we are all unaware of the comfort a 50s housewife's outfit could bring ! Ha, being devoted mothers and wives -with that emblematic idiotic smile-, again ! But for the die-hard out there, who can't help thinking by themselves, I guess bondage would be the radical cure. And, good for you ! You don't have to humiliate yourself again in a sex shop because you can't find your size of corset, because bondage is quietly becoming mainstream. Example ? No, no, the Spring Summer collection of Hermes is not equestrian-themed. The guys didn't fool Carine Roitfield, the queen of porno chic, and I guess you don't need a degree to add leather + straps + whips and find what it truly means ...

Bordelle

 But I guess it is just a little bit more subtle than Rihanna learning Shibari ( the japanese art of restraining ). Another winner in the categories of "You saw it coming, don't you ?" and "I found myself very smart when I've decided of that name" is brand Bordelle which directly refers to the french word for brothel ( with a mistake s'il vous plaît ). Its products ? Lingerie. But the kind of lingerie you fear to discover inside the cute little gift-wrap Darling gave you on Valentine's. The one which remind you that 1) you've failed your diet AGAIN 2) you've forgot to buy talc AGAIN 3) your mother was right AGAIN. I guess you totally know what I mean.

Plein Sud

As it is actually Valentine's Day today, let me give you some hints of what you could receive this night : a dress which wants to be sexy but screams "YOU'RE MY LITTLE UNDERPANTS WASHER !" instead ( All Saints ), a dress (yes, I swear you, they call it a dress !) which will be very creative this summer with the appropriate tanning and which would totally consolitade your mother-in-law in the idea that you are totally insane ( Plein Sud ), and accessories which will turn Wonder Woman and Leigh Bowery totally green with envy ( Gabriella Marina Gonzalez ). But if he gifts you with a Phylea ball-gag (yes he stole and secretly read your Numero magazine ) don't do your Rihanna : that will be definitely the signal to FLEE. 

Oh, did I just spoiled your Valentine's surprise ??? I'm such a naughty girl ... 

All Saints £135,00

Trend : Ten Killer Details for 2011

Richard Nicoll at 3 Suisses

 Needing ideas to spice up your summer wardrobe without ruining yourself ? I've spotted 10 easy fashion details that would help you being trendy and penny-wise at the same time. This summer, there are three important influences that you need to master : Arabian nights ( with the indigo blue ), Gothic ( make-up and accessories ) and Punk ( "do-it-yourself" ).

The Smock
The stripes are back, but avoid bright colors, only great on the catwalks. Instead, choose the smock, that classic sailor's T, which uses the trendy colour of the season and which is modernized with leggings, leather shorts or leather jacket. Of course, it is the main piece of Tommy Hilfiger's collection, but you can easily buy unexpensive versions.

Isabel Marant (Style.com)

 The Hairnet
Once the prerogative of 80s ravers ( in Day-Glo ) and of gothics ( in black ), the hairnet settles down in white. You can play with its transparency, to emphasize a top or to reveal your body. You can wear it with summer skirts and shorts, a la Isabel Marant, or keep its rock attitude with a perfecto ( by Guess Jeans ). In army green, it will extend the military trend.

1060 Clothes

 The Suspenders
This is a detail that really caught my eye. It is punky, original and very simple to do. Use them to structure a loose t-shirt, for a boyish yet chic attitude.

Paul Smith (Style.com)

 The Armband
Spice up the boyish shirt with a very elegant detail : tie a silk scarf ( or a necktie ) to one of your arms, just a bit above the roll up sleeve. Of course, the shirt is white ( or clear blue ) and the scarf indigo.

Gucci ( Saks.com)

 The Tassel
We have seen it everywhere on the catwalks during the fashion week : at Miu Miu on a dress, at Diane Von Furstenberg on a bag, at Vuitton as earrings and of course, at Gucci on belts ( gorgeous belts ! ). You can easily find cords with nice colours everywhere ( yes, curtain cords ) or do your own.

Kate Lanphear (photographer unknown, please contact me if it is your work)

 The Cuffs
I've told you : heavy metal accessories are very trendy this season. We've seen them a lot on the collections. My favourites were those of Giorgio Armani, John Richmond and Etro. The editor of Elle, Kate Lanphear had already adopted them for her fierce look. It is definitely the jewels to wear this summer. You can buy them everywhere, but I recommend the tasty pieces of Felder Felder.

Giorgio Armani

 The Tagelmust
This winter it was the turban, but in summer, we are staying in the desert and we steal the headgear of the Tuareg. In indigo, of course, matched with a blue eye-liner, black or blue jackets and silver jewels.

Authentique Panama (Vogue Paris, photographer Mario Sorrenti, Pucci dress )

 The Wide-Brimmed Hat
Already seen on the celebs ( Rachel Bilson, Liv Tyler, Nicole Richie, to name few ), the wide-brimmed hat is the seminal details of the seasons. Seen in straw at Marc Jacobs, I prefer the black version worn by Lou Doillon for La Redoute or the one of American Apparel. To wear with a very long dress, preferably skin-tight to look slimmer or loose for a boho style.

Rick Owens (Style.com)

 The Gothic Eye
The bold make-up is making its come-back, perhaps influenced by the poster of movie Black Swan. Spotted on the catwalk, the oversized smoky eyes of Rick Owens and the Manson-esque blue of Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Louis Vuitton (Style.com)

The Dark Red Lips
If you prefer to wear lipstick, you have to know that nude and peach shades are over. Now, the lips must be dark as seen on the models during the shows of Louis Vuitton and Yves Saint Laurent. But don't overload your face with smoky eyes, it is one or the other.

Voilà, you now have all the ingredients to parad this summer with style.