The Column of Samantha Tyler

My article on Papercut Magazine (part 2)

2011-09-22T13:48:00.000+01:00

No, I'm not dead, nor this blog. I've taken long vacations devoted to my many projects and now they are nearly finished, including a Victorian thriller, scenarii, articles for magazines and more. Phew !

And the better way for this come back is to start with the release of the second part of my article "My Generation" published in the gorgeous September edition of Papercut.

Here's the link, take a look, it's page 22 :

http://issuu.com/papercutmag/docs/papercutmag_september_2011/23

Do you like it ? Or not convinced yet ? Stay stunned ! Coming soon, a feature on the modern praise of the past (your opinion is warmly welcome, please visit my Facebook page for a quick poll), and more articles on contemporary culture.

Be prepared for 2012 ...

Spotlight : Karin Dreijer Andersson, The Black Riding Mood

2011-06-07T11:59:00.002+01:00

You might think that I'm neglecting this blog. You're partly right, but it is because I live by a rule that is "when you have nothing to say, saying nothing is better than saying stupidities or to repeat yourself". When I read magazines and other blogs, I have the impression to suffer from enormous deja-vus, they're all with stripes, and Gucci and summer ... To be honest, this is the season that bores me the more and these days, fashion is the least of my worries. I've prefered to devote myself to the writing of my fifth novel. It's generally what I do when I am particularly deceived by the cultural releases, that is to say novels, movies and music. When I see a world, with the wonderful cultural inheritance we know, which, prefering easiness, releases movies such as The Red Riding Hood, that really motivates me to produce something better. But I have choosed this example because this turkey had a least an advantage : its soundtrack features an artist I really admire and who inspires me a lot.

This lady's name is Karin Dreijer Andersson. The 36 years old Swede is the voice and the spirit of two amazing bands : Fever Ray, which signs the song The Wolf on the Red Riding Hood's soundtrack, and iconic electronic duo The Knife, with her brother Olof. Both might be unfamiliar to you if you're not into electronic music, but even if Karin and her projects are still very discreet, they have a huge impact in the contemporary world of music.
I ran into The Knife by chance, some years ago. At the time, my electronical universe was limited to male voices, either trip hop (Massive Attack, Sneaker Pimps) or industrial, such as Hocico, Das Ich and other brutal lyricism. My only female experiences were Goldfrapp and Björk, who I regarded as the strangest of my tastes. So, the first time I heard a song of The Knife, it was quite a revolution.

It looked like an alien encounter; you can't help but have the strong feeling that you have met something superior, something more intense. Let's start with Neverland, from their second album, Silent Shout (2006), it is an easy introduction. If you're caught, then you could dare to enter deeper in their unusual vibrancy and their universe, an odd mix of darkness, bitterness, childhood and fairyland. They quote David Lynch, Donnie Darko, Kate Bush and Siouxsie and the Banshees, but you can expect to find more from your unconscious than in any psychotherapy. But don't expect a classical relationship, because The Knife is not here to satisfy masses, and they're not afraid to shock your ears and your expectations. Silent shout is quite disturbing, and you will tend to prefer Deep Cuts (2003) and The Knife (2001), perhaps more academic. Their latest creation, Tomorrow, in a Year (2010) in association with Mt. Sims is even harder to reach (don't say creepy !), even for I who appreciate the sound of Matthew Sims.

But, what makes the band so unique is the voice and personality of Karin. At the same time very pure, but fragile, she is constantly at the limits of shrill and sweetish in her singing, which makes a huge contrast with her play on her appearance, very dark and tribal. While with The Knife, she liked to hide herself behind a plague doctor mask : but don't see any Gaga attempt here. The lady doesn't like mainstream attention. Nominated thrice at the Grammis (the Swedish equivalent of the Grammy Awards), she never came, even when she had won several prizes. Her taste for costumes and her contribution to movies' soundtracks could remind of band Daft Punk, but Karin Dreijer Andersson is much more than a marketing mystery. She stands for women in the music industry, for the minorities, and succeeds in offering a rare mysticism to a world where music is devoted to money and fame.

Her solo project, Fever Ray, founded in 2009, led her to throw the masks, and she adopted tribal paintings and somptuous costumes. Death and shamanism are the main visual themes, but loneliness is what stands out from the album. Many critics have qualified her work of "claustrophobic", but I quite disagree with the term, or we are putting a different meaning here. The music of The Knife recalled the countryside, dense forests of dark pine trees, large desert plain, and was more organic, even if cold, as those of Ladytron. With Fever Ray, Andersson migrates inside the cities by night, the gloomy interiors, the Platonician grottos with their lack of realism and their nightmares, finding Neverland again. With this new and outstanding aesthetism, she has decided to explore darker sides of her music, even if, for the moment, it is still close to those of The Knife, a fact that critics can't help but underline. But Karin is from those creatures who develop herselves without the look and opinion of the others, and her work is still the most sensible and remarkable innovation I've seen in music industry so far.

Katie Stelmanis from Austra - Nika Roza Danilova from Zola Jesus

Moreover, she has opened the way for girls in electronic music, far from the clichés of the sexy djs of trendy parties (Miss Kittin and other IT girls suddenly turned musically inspired; that doesn't prevent them from having talent, don't make me say what I didn't). Now, the blondes with distorded voices are a new trend, and if they're not all of great quality, they still offer some good tunes. We can quote Canadian singer Katie Stelmanis, who acts both in solo and with band Austra, and Russian American Nika Roza Danilova, better known under the name of Zola Jesus. In the brunettes' side, Björk has found a spiritual daughter in Grimes, another Canadian singer. The common point of those youngsters is the dark mood, and they are often dubbed witches by narrow-minded journalists. Put some Rick Owens on them and they will consider them as the new IT girls ...
As for Karin Dreijer Andersson, no risk to find her inside the pages of a fashion magazine, even if her style is more interesting and intense than those of an Alexa Chung (seriously, she's cute, but who's that girl ?). Just listen to her music, like it or hate it. But find out that there is life outside of the filmography of Catherine Hardwicke ...

Claire Boucher aka Grimes - copyright David J. Romero

(If you know or own the copyright of one of this photos, please contact me.)

Trend : Shanghai Ladies

2011-05-23T12:25:00.000+01:00

Rita Hayworth and Orson Welles in The Lady from Shanghai (1947)

The charms of the past would never stop seducing the Fashion world. Thanks to Joan Harris, the 60s silhouettes are back, with their curves and their vitally kitsch dresses, hairdos and stilettos. Since then, the image fashion guru's want for the 21st century's women is quite arguable. While some are thinking that androginity is the future for human being, many people are trying to reassert the right to an assumed feminity. For these women, the post WWII's wardrobe is what suits them the best. Actually, it is genuinely elegant, cute and feminine. But Past has got its negative points too, and we did a long way since then, especially in term of social and sexual progress. Living in our modern world with pencil skirts and corsets is only appealing in the paper ... So, we need to search another model for our thrist of classic feminity.

Gene Tierney in The Shanghai Gesture (1941)

I don't know what Marc Jacob had in mind when he launched the Summer collection of Louis Vuitton, but he certainly has felt that the fashion's wind was now blowing from the east. But, fortunately, the trend avoided the trap of the geishas' aestheticism and rather chose a vision of the woman which was more free. On the bounce of the American designer, the fashion world is heading to a city which is, in our westerner's mind, a synonymous with exoticism, sensuality and luxury : Shanghai. But the Shanghai which inspires Industry this Fall is the Shanghai of the classic black and white movies of the 40s. Indeed, the aestheticism chosen is very old-world, nearly cliché, with a lot of red silk, dark floral patterns and jazzy influences.

Gene Tierney

The muses I suggest are American actresses Rita Hayworth and Gene Tierney. They have both played in movies with Shanghai in the title, the first one in The Lady from Shanghai (the presence of the Chinese city here was just a way to add mystery to her character) and the second one in The Chinese Gesture. If you are familiar with this one, you would agree that, first, Gene should certainly have deserved more recognition, and secondly, that her costumes, created by her husband and famous American designer Oleg Cassini, were not particularly chinese ... So, why emphasizing them in an article on Shanghai's fashion ? Because they embody the spirit of this Fall Chinese's influence. It's totally out of the question to bring back the traditional Chinese dresses. Mainly because Industry is looking for Chinese buyers, who want novelty, but at the same time, something that would reassure them ... So, what they want is to instill the preciosity and the discreet eroticism of Asia's biggest country into contemporary and western garments.

Saffron Knight AW2011 collection

This way, they offer us exoticism within our reach and to Chinese buyers, a taste of classic Hollywood which would fit their own codes. Clever, isn't it ?
The new Shanghai ladies are Amazons, they are lounge's warriors, with an independence and an intelligence similar (if not superior) to men, with seduction as their secret weapon. They are both sensible, like Elsa in The Lady from Shanghai and Poppy in The Shanghai Gesture, but terribly unreachable and almost living godesses. Many designers and brands have already played with those codes in their Fall collection. The one of Jamaican-British designer Saffron Knight is particularly accomplished. Very far from her usual style, this collection marry tradition and a cheeky modernity with success. The Dragon-lady is not dead ...

Topshop header for its collection 'Shanghai'

The Shanghai collection from Topshop is less convincing. It's more difficult to recognize the Chinese influences in the offered garments, which are sometimes more Japanese than Chinese ... Looks like geography and fashion are still not studied in the same schools ... But some pieces remain in the spirit we've talked about. And I guess that we will see more interesting stuff in the next months ...
My personal pick would be a dress from the Fall catalogue of French online retailer 3Suisses, which offers a sexy silk dress (avaible in Chinese-like print or trendy colours) for only 29,90 euros (which is £25,90 and almost $42). This dress is genuinely in the mood of those classic 40s movies, full of exoticism and of strong heroines. The perfect answer to the desperate housewives of last year. Plus, there is travel with your past ...

3Suisses dress 29,90 euros, avaible in many European and foreign countries

http://www.3suisses.fr
http://www.topshop.com
http://www.saffronknight.me.uk

My article on Papercut Magazine (part 1)

2011-05-16T15:26:00.006+01:00

"My favorite has to be Samantha Tyler's article My Generation, so loved that we split it across this issue and the next -read the first half, you'll love it too." Hayley Maybury, editor of Papercut.http://papercutmag.com (click on "Expand" to read it ; or, see the screencaptures in the Who's Sam section at the top of the blog. )
http://issuu.com/papercutmag/docs/papercutmag_may_2011_issue/63
Go to page 62 to discover the said first part of my article on the new generation of designers, artists and fashion leaders of today and tomorrow. I hope you would enjoy reading it as much as I did writing it ...

In order of appearance, you will meet :

French designer Yiqing Yin, who is about to launch her first collection at next Semaine de la Couture ( http://www.yiqingyin.com ). You can also see a special article on her here : http://samsensibility.blogspot.com/2011/04/interview-yiqing-yin-perfect-harmony.html
New-yorker Blogger Saroya Norris, who launched her own online jewelery shop, Rich&Rebellious ( http://www.sariandcompany.com and http://www.richandrebellious.com )
Italian designer Sara Battaglia, whose bags are already famous around the fashion world ( http://sarabattaglia.com )
British designer Victoria Rangayah, whose brand Z Mode is taking Britain by storm ( http://www.zmode.co.uk and at online retailer http://www.youngbritishdesigners.com )
Miami-based photographer David Benoliel, who graced the last Miami Art Basel ( http://www.davidbenolielphotography.com )
Swiss contemporary painter Saul Zanolari, which last painting Echography for a change - Lady Gaga and Julie Andrews shows once again his talent and cheeky eye on today's world ( http://www.saulzanolari.com )
Bonus interview of Los Angeles designers of DimePiece, only on my blog : http://samsensibility.blogspot.com/2011/05/interview-dimepiece-welcome-to-paradime.html

Thor actress Jaimie Alexander is also gracing the cover, and there are great photoshots and articles you will certainly like to see ! Happy Birthday Papercut, you're the cutest one-year old baby I've ever seen ! ;-D

Decoding : Cute Overdose

2011-05-14T15:28:00.002+01:00

A facebook group found out freaky similarities between a Disney wedding and those of William and Kate

Most of the people I met think that I am no fun. They say that I didn't kept my children's soul because I don't know by heart the song of the opening credits of the Japanese cartoon I've watched when I was a child. They say that I am a cold heart because I ask them to stop sending me YouTube videos of kittens while at work. And they call me an alien because I have main interests and joys different from them. As you can see, in our modern society, grown-ups still behave like kids in the freaking sandbox ... In France, the phenomenon is clearly visible with people in their thirties, and I've observed some similarities while in the USA too. They seem to suffer from the Peter Pan's syndrome : they refuse to enjoy themselves like adults, so they keep doing kids activities, using kids references and most importantly, dressing with kids accessories, this, past twenty. Is this one of the symptoms of the 11th September's trauma ? I think it is rather a new response to the punk "No Future". But while punks were sinking into sex, drugs and good music, this new generation prefers sweets, teddy bears and facebook groups. Harmless ? I'm not sure. But irritating, definitely.

T-shirt Uniqlo £7,99 - Necklace Vivienne Westwood 220euros - Shoes Jeremy Scott for Adidas $250

The day Kate told "yes" to William, I was quite happy. Everyone was behind its TV, and I could enjoy my city, being the only one outside and not obsessed by a wedding that didn't touch me at all. But the avalanche catched me up the following days with intensive press coverage and, above all, web invasion. Oh yes, they were cute, love is great, the princesses had ridiculous hats ... People around the world were acting as if this event was personal to them, calling the bride "Kate" as if she was a close friend. It was an earth-scale version of movie Muriel, without the good tunes of ABBA. Yes, see, I like joyful music. But I must miss the namby pamby allele on my female chromosome, perhaps the same one which prevents me to like heels ( see my article I'm not Cinderella ), because I don't do idiot little cries when I see a baby or an animal. Something you're now told to do in every fashion magazine that respects itself. Really.
As everything mainstream, the "Cute" quickly became a good tank of inspiration for fashion, and some designers have started to suffer from the syndrom, or mostly, to think that idiots would be delighted to buy their regressive creations. It is certainly the case of Jeremy Scott, who even admits that creating his teddy bears sneakers was the dumbest ideas he had. But thanks to the trend of wearing kids' toys as fashion accessories, he will make a fortune without any regret. Many others were precursors, Moschino and Sonia Rikyel, for example, which quickly assumed a change for exhilarating fluo colours and models acting like little girls.

Paul&Joe : jacket 295euros, lipstick 21,65euros

But the Golden Palm at Cannes Festival would certainly go this year to the childish prints. Mickey is struting about in both Uniqlo and Topshop, with many of his closest relatives. But now that everyone has got the new book of Jonathan Safran Foer on the bedside, the supreme IT is to show love for animals. Forget about the fuddy-duddy of wearing sweaters with horses designs ! But you will be even trendier with lobsters and penguins in your tees and scarves, signé Charlotte Taylor. The cat is a sure value : it always will be cute. So, brand Paul&Joe was certain to make a hit with their lipstick in shape of the pet. Adorable, admittedly, but how stupid when you have to use it and the cat disappears ? As usual, consumerism didn't stop to strike ... But you don't only wear animals as prints, you also have to wear them as accessories themselves ! The trend has been launched in the catwalks, where models started walking their dogs. Then Natalia Vodianova carried a lamb for lingerie brand Etam. And then again, the escalation couldn't be stopped. On the cover of the magazines, you cannot see the girl without the beast, not dangerous anymore. Even Robert Pattinson showed that gators were cute, and Bulgari offered a big cuddly toy to its new muse Kirsten Dunst ... If Givenchy and Wildfox are still trying to sell drooling fangs, they are totally out of the time. The wild animal inside us has been tamed and it is now as peaceful and sweet as a lamb.

Moschino 683euros

It is not great anymore to be rock : the skulls start to become fun, as for jeweller Aurélie Bidermann, and we'd rather take the sweet necklaces of our childhood out again, because they're the new studs !
Smileys, peace signs, cheerful messages are blooming everywhere, and even the Queen of protest, Vivienne Westwood, have teddy bears in her Summer 2011 collection ! Suddenly, we are all told to dress like Katy Perry and to live on Sesame Street ! I know that the world is scary, my dears. But I don't think that spending your evenings and nights watching series could help when you're desperately single. Same, I don't think that losing your time watching YouTube videos of pandas could solve your problems of unemployment, neither a t-shirt could fight your angst of nuclear disaster, even made by the interesting label Mother of Pearls. And don't kid yourself : if the richest prescribers of the world are showing you cats with bags, it is not a way for them to bring you something cute and relieving : it is because they are taking advantage of your need for reassurance. Did you see the price of the items shown in this article ? Except for the t-shirt, everything is so indecently expensive. Stella McCartney has taken her last collection directly from your childhood wardrobe and she tries to sell it for a fortune. Blog The Fashion Police ( http://www.thefashionpolice.net/ ) has found a very appropriate expression for that : Daylight Armed Robbery.

V Magazine

Yes, my children, while you are dreaming that you could live forever in your wonderland of childhood references and dreams, the nasty capitalists out there are still planning to eat you in the wood when you will take honey to your grandmother ... And if no t-shirt could repels the troubles of the adulthood, they are also good things about growing up. Believe Aunt Sammy ...
So, put away your Barbies and start looking for them ...

Mother of Pearls

Interview : DimePiece, Welcome to Paradime

2011-05-03T15:20:00.000+01:00

There's still a fortnight before the release of my article on young designers, and I thought that another teaser would please you. This interview was supposed to be included in the article, but unfortunately arrived too late. I thought it was unfair for the two adorable girls who have taken the time to answer, with a lot of humour and freshness, so I've decided to make it as a 'bonus'.
DimePiece is one of those brands, like American Apparel, which are very proud to sell products entirely manufactured locally. At its head, two "chicks on pills" (one of their recurring pattern), Laura Fama, 24 and Ashley Jones, 26, both graduates in Fashion and "dwelling in the colourful and adventurous garment district of in downtown Los Angeles", who want to fight the reign of the foreign-made clothes and its quality and human damages. "We design and manufacture all our garments and accessories here in Los Angeles. We favour this decision in working domestically with our contractors so we can watch exactly how our garments are assembled day to day. It feels good knowing that our sewers, graders, patternmakers, etc are all getting paid fairly without a middleman. Plus it helps create more jobs domestically and stimulates our economy. Win-win." The label is their baby, and they handle everything from scratch. Their products are incredibly trendy and desirable, a mix of rock aesthetic and Californian bohemian lifestyle.

“Each season’s line is expressed by modern pop art-themed prints and t-shirts with the cheekiest and most feminist of phrases, along with hoodies, sweatshirts, leggins and tanks. Now in its tenth season, the young designers add another solid installment to Dimepiece, and go from strength to strength as trendsetting Fergie, Nicki Minaj, The Kardashians, Amber Rose, Juliette Lewis, Pink, M.I.A., Katy Perry and Estelle have emerged as fans.”
Indeed, L.A.'s A-list has quickly integrated their list of clients. Their prices, though, are still affordable, but I strongly regret that their delivery prices for Europe are mostly equals to the price of their garments ... Of course, it is a detail in front of the quality the girls offer and their philosophy. Their soap box ? Women empowerment. "That’s always been what we’ve stood for, and always had a positive response from, and so we’ve never felt forced to translate it through our designs. Women, power, and how the two interconnect was originally the motive that our brand was based on and so it works its way into each season naturally. We use most of our graphic tees as a way of communication to state our opinion on various things. This is a passion of ours and so it’s important to us that we keep creating statement tees with each collection."
The picture of a spitting cat, with this catchy statement on, "One Pussy you can't fuck with" : the message is clear enough ... But you can't reduce the label to provocation and feminism.

The girls are quoting Alexander McQueen, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Vivienne Westwood as fashion models, designers who also tried to convey social messages through art and insolence. They took risks, and the girls praise them for that : "People nowadays are weary what others may think or judge them if they step outside of acceptable guidelines.[They] took risks in their designs in the infancy of their careers… The industry finally embraced it and favoured [them] for their unique style and vision." Three appealing destinies which won't stop making imitators, but Laura and Ashley are now wishing to follow their own path, with the risks induced. Ashley told me : "There is a quote [which] has always stayed with me, “Always be a first-rate version of yourself, instead of a second-rate version of somebody else.” [we are owing this gorgeous sentence to actress Judy Garland] Innovation is key, as a brand we take pride in doing what we feel, we try to do only what we like and what we think is ‘us’. In turn it keeps the brand innovative and fresh, it preserves our own ideas that make us independent from older legacies."
The influences of the two ladies can be found in our modern society : model Agyness Deyn, for example, is one of their muse and T-shirt's pattern, and more generally, we can feel a true respect for contemporary artists, especially streets ones.

But Art, like Love, doesn't pay the bill (another of their slogans) : "Aesthetic is important, but sometimes we just want to say how we feel and put it on a tee." These girls are level-headed and you would not loose them into the game of Art for Art. They describe themselves as businesswomen, but that doesn't mean that they've lost their sense of humour ... "Finding a balance between art and trade would be incredible but we have to work hard towards that perfect symmetry. In general though, fashion should be closer to art, of course. Fashion is in itself art. It’s creative and fun. Trade is money, consumerism, business! commerce! AH GET ME OUT OF HERE!"
This sense of reality also allow DimePiece to stand independant and unique, while other young labels have already lapsed into exorbitant pricing and mainstreaming. The girls are really proud of their freedom : "we lean more towards a democratic point of view but overall we are a liberated brand that is self-governing." But they are still prudents. Crisis have affected the young label, and many of their shops were forced to close. Luck has nothing to do with it : indeed, talent has been stronger than difficulty, and now, they can breathe easier. Not surprising with such a motto : "Always making a way when there was no way" ...
Internet is also a strong weapon for Laura and Ashley, who own a very attractive website. It allows them to go deeper in their thirst of experience. "It’s interesting to watch designers and artists release work into the internet world and see how quick and easy it is to receive an emotional response from someone, good or bad…via Facebook, Twitter, Google, etc. I think it’s encouraging for designers like us to share our new collections and art projects with the masses to view, especially on a worldwide/global scale. Blogs and web-zines have opened a new chapter when trying to reach new consumers and shoppers from around the globe. Click, click, scroll and you can watch someone’s art or project unfold right in front of your eyes, it’s so instant, so much information at your fingertips and a lot (to say the least) to keep you encouraged."

If they are aware that their American aura is what makes them so attractive worldwide, they also confess an attraction for Europe and Japan. "We’ve spent time in both [countries] and think there is a dynamism there that the U.S. doesn’t understand. There’s a unique sense of vigor for art, fashion and creation. Tons of personal style, people who take risks, and innovators that are more open to being unique. I can’t get enough of that." says Ashley. It is maybe the dream of the ladies of DimePiece, but it is definitely ours : more DimePiece stores on the other side of the Atlantic and the Pacific ... That would resolve my delivery's issues ... Meanwhile, you can shop their sexy dresses, terrific collars, graphic bags and cheeky tees on http://www.dimepiecedesigns.com/store ...

A girl, a style : Tank Girl

2011-04-28T13:30:00.004+01:00

These days, I'm a bit tired of the girls I see in the magazines and in the streets. They are all replicas of each others, with stripes, colours and vintage clothes. Conversely, some prefers a rock attitude, implying the addiction to some very trendy brands which have little to do with rock but with a clever marketing, such as The Kooples or Zadig&Voltaire. I didn't want to focus on one of those grunge trainee, and suddenly, I've thought about the comic's heroine, Tank Girl. This odd creature was created by Jamie Hewlett and Alan Martin at the end of the 80's. Set in a post-apocalyptic world, the comic focus on a nonconformist (it's the very least you can say...) tank pilot (hence her name, Tank Girl) whose adventures are mostly absurd, but hilarious. Now, Hewlett takes care of music band Gorillaz, and his punk heroine has quite fallen to oblivion. But her unique style still influence many indie girls, and could seriously kick the ass of all the punk-wanabees out there, starting with Taylor Momsen : Girl, dressing with black underwear is not original and cool as you suppose, so at least, put a mischievous smile on your drunkard head ...

Boots Nicolas Andreas Taralis £705 - Jean Eleven Paris 89euros - Sweater AllSaints £63

As a resident of an Australian desert, Tank Girl is not really keen on covering clothes, but she sometimes slips on tees and sweaters. If she would make some shopping, I'm sure she would fall for British designer Eudon Choi, whose designs seem to fit a post-apocalyptic world a la Luis Royo, another artist who could have a fresh influences on all those neo-punks. I also imagine that Tank Girl would not resist to the clothes of brands Obesity&Speed (they have an hilarious t-shirt with 70s former punk goddess Poly Styrene, and many other destroy garments), DimePiece (I'm in love with their collars, slightly less with their shipping costs) or French brand Eleven Paris, whose ambassadors are Lizzy Jagger, daughter of Mike, and Zoe Krawitz, daughter of Lenny, two potential Tank girls.

Charm Helen Ficalora $35 - Bra Urban Outfitter 24euros - Belt Boy London $8 on Ebay - Short Bitching&Junkfood 72euros - Boots AllSaints £185 - Watch La Mer Collections $198

But, most of the times, Tank Girl is hanging out with crosses taped on her boobs, or if she wants to be a bit classier, in some dark bras. She howled with laughter when she saw Katy Perry's video California Gurls, because, obviously, rockets bras are outweighing chantilly cream bottles ones ... For the bottom, she would certainly fancy a legging by Aguri Sagimori, but her preference would mostly head for a destroyed jean short, such as those of Evil Twin. Also, she is a bit fetishistic when it comes to crosses, and jewels in general. She has got a lot of them, badges, bangles, rosaries, and she would certainly love the cuffes and belts of Givenchy by Riccardo Tischi and the bullets pendants of Akillis. And if she wanted to be a bit sexy for her boyfriend Booga, she could puts fake suspenders panty hoses by Henry Holland.

Ellery Fall 2011

A tank is definitely classier than a motorbike, but if you would like to channel your inner Rebecca Buck (her real name) in a colder country, you would adopt the brand Ellery, which made a very appealing campaign for its Fall collection. A bit too aristocratic for Tank Girl though, but she would steal the belts for sure. She would also kidnap Britney Spears and forces her to give her the Burberry Prorsum jacket she's wearing in her latest video, Liv Tyler, for her Givenchy dog sweater and obviously Kate Lanphear, for her integral wardrobe. I guess she would also appreciate the editor's do. Singer Cassie and Brit It girl Alice Dellal have also tried the Tank Girl's hairdo, in a more feminine version. Alice, incidentally, would be a recommended cast for the role of Tank Girl in a movie (one which doesn't suck, as the previous attempts did), much more than Ellen Page, as some geeks have suggested.

Alice Dellal

Courtney Love and Kate Moss have their adepts, so why not Tank Girl ? At least, her attitude is much more real and funky than all those IT girls who think that wearing a dark tee at the last MTV Push Party with CK One would make you a rock star. Neither does a Schott jacket, even a great red one. First, it is in the head. In the freedom of your thought. That's why a look at the Tank Girl's comic could not kill you (remastered edition from £6,48 at Amazon.co.uk). Alcohol and drugs could, however, so remember that you're not a comic heroine.

http://www.obesityandspeed.com
http://www.elevenparis.com
http://dimepiecedesigns.com
http://www.allsaints.com
http://www.urbanoutfitters.com
http://www.elleryland.com
http://www.layerslondon.com
http://www.shopbop.com

Shopping : Zen Garden

2011-04-21T11:50:00.003+01:00

Ring Gaia Repossi for Zadig&Voltaire 320euros - Gareth Pugh Fall 2011 - Pendant Kenneth Jay Lane $132 - Blayde £488 (click to enlarge)

To fight the stress of our modern world with all the angsts related to modernity (nuclear power stations, airwaves, planes, traffic jams, Suri Cruise and other children ...) and the frenzy of the fashion Industry which drives many people to burnouts (Galliano, Decarnin, Lohan...), some people have found a solution. We all saw Diane Von Furstenberg doing her yoga in Le Jour d'Avant of Loic Pringent. Likewise, Karl Lagerfeld never seems so zen now he is almost ubiquitous, the Beckhams, Kate Bosworth, Miranda Kerr and Naomi Watts have all turned to Buddhism and many celebrities are lauding the return to nature and to a more spiritual life. Don't kid ourselves, most of them are doing that to give themselves a most mysterious, intellectual side. But the idea is there and it never sounds that good.

Bangles Chan Luu 175euros - Bangle All Saints £45 - Kimono jacket Zara 79,90euros - Skirt Topshop £35 - Top Topshop £38

Minimalism carries on fascinating designers, even if they prefer luxury and colours this season. But some of them are thinking in another direction : it is the case of New Yorkers Donna Karan who have launched an intermediate collection called "Urban Zen" and Michael Kors who created minimalistic zen shoes. Both Gareth Pugh and Haider Ackermann have been inspired by Asian soft kimonos and we can find many loose-fitting items in shops. So, if you wish to bring some Zen in your life and in your wardrobe, here are some tips ...

Dress Mango 129euros - Donna Karan Urban Zen collection

One of the most famous exercise of Chinese gymnastics, Qi Gong, is called Baduanjin, which can be translated by the Eight Pieces of Brocarde. Brocade is incidentally a luxurious fabric, so the connection between Zen and fashion is not only a fancy of the mind ... If you think that kimonos are too clichés, or too much related to geishas, choose large and soft garments, preferably of soft colours related to stone and sand, the two key elements of a zen garden. Orange is trendy, but for meditation, leave it to Buddhist monks, because you will have more chance to look like a convict at Pelican Bay ... You can also find many stone washed blouses, t-shirts and dresses, to continue the metaphor. Topshop has got a lot of great nude items that fit both bohos (it's the 70s revival) and our purpose.

Brook&Lyn $352 - Maison Michel for Opening Ceremony $975

On the side of the accessories, flats have definitely their place in the fashionista's wardrobe and stones are still very present. The star of the season is turquoise, but I've chosen more natural examples. Californian brand Chan Luu, the darling of celebrities, drew its inspiration from Buddhist prayers' bangles, while online retailer Shopbop offers a range of stone jewels and accessories of great originality, such as the body roped necklaces of Brook&Lyn. More zen, you die and the price is also a small death. If you think that stones and ropes are not worth so much money, you would prefer the collection of Monaco jeweller Gaia Repossi, which reminds of Native American dreamcatchers. Nature is international, and the more important is the interior peace those items bring you.

Just Female 75euros - Paolo Errico 450euros

Now, you are ready. You've got an ethereal silhouette, gracious gesture, a free mind. You can do what you want, draw lines in the sand, cut a bonsai, do tai chi, sunbath at Coachella, ... Talking of music, I could have chosen something from Chinese or Japanese music, but I will take something more rock from my stock. No, not the Rolling Stones, but the idea is here ...

Interview : Yiqing Yin, the Perfect Harmony

2011-04-19T10:50:00.001+01:00

No, I didn't disappear since the beginning of April. My apology for the absence of articles. I was concentrating all my energy on my work of freelance editor and I had the opportunity to get many interesting articles. One of them was a report on the young generation of designers. For it, I have interviewed many of those young talents, but one has particularly striken me : fashion designer Yiqing Yin. So, I really wanted to introduce her to you.

"To me Fashion is not only about a garment but also striving to create an emotion, to tell a story and to relate to others."She states.

Yiqing is a twenty-six years old young woman from China who grew up in Paris, France. Of her two cultures, she had formed a very personal universe, made of natural elegance, grace and harmony, in one side, and of prestige, magnificence and details in the other. This mix is also present in the work of Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Grès, two French classic designers she quotes as her inspiration. Madame Grès is, incidentally, honoured by an exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle, in Paris. We can find this legacy in Yiqing's work.

Yiqing decided to launch her own label after the International Festival of Couture of Hyeres, in France, where she was a finalist. Since then, the success was always here and she won the Great Prize of the city of Paris and has been exhibited in a gallery. She will soon show her first collection in public, in July.

"I have a very sculptural approach to garment and couture, which i try to modernise by reinterpreting various techniques based on pleating draping, cording, smocks ... It s a sensitive and instinctive approach. My main focus and starting point in creation is the encounter with the fabric, its texture and its movement." She says.

Her catchwords are quality, emotions and moderation, and thus, she rejects trends, fast fashion and consumerism. She is proud to make products of quality, of an extreme luxury, even if it means that she would only sell to an elit.

Already spotted by famous magazines (Vogue, for example), the young woman is yet easy to access and she has answered my questions with politeness and concern, which is always very remarkable in the Industry. It is also very rare to see someone that young being that wise, able to think about big issues and to have a very philosophical and sensible view on the present and the future. A pearl in that world of celebrities-obsessed designers. Yiqing never quotes an actress, she dresses real women, like you and I ( if we can afford her creations of course !). Sure, he is not famous herself yet, but her vision of her work should prevents her to get a big-head :

"I love my job so much because of the reality behind it, the notion of intimacy to a person and the absolute necessity that is intrinsic to the very idea of clothing."

"The stylistic directions of my design are very personal, but I never had the feeling that I had to compromise creatively, quite on the contrary people from the industry and the public have always encouraged me to dig deeper into what I instinctively desire. I m not interested in proposing a vision that everyone likes, it wouldn’t be “honest”, and again it’s all about emotions and I much rather have people hate it or love it."

Let's hope that she will get the attention she deserves, without losing this integrity which is so refreshing in that world of attention-seekers. For the moment, her website is a bit empty, but if you want to take a look, click here : http://www.yiqingyin.com/

For the rest of Yiqing's interview and those of the other designers, you will have to wait for the publication of the article. I will keep you updated.

Trend : Fieldtrip

2011-03-31T10:00:00.002+01:00

Spring is finally here, if not in your country, at least, it is in the shops. Flowers are invading all the departments, and not only in the garden center. Flower prints everywhere, the worst nightmare of persons who hate them, persons like me. I like flowers, but in their natural environment, nature. And very a propos, what makes me smile the most is the main theme of Spring/Summer 2011. The beach is out, exotic countries too. No, from upscale magazines to the most posh brands, the trendy place to be seems to be ... countryside. No cows, no haystack, but it is nearly here. The Chanel's campaign picnics in an orchard, in those of John Lewis, it's teatime in a gazebo and many others choosed a vegetal background. This Spring, we will all move from cities to the pastures ...

Dress Rodarte Fall 2011 (Style.com) - shoes Alexander McQueen Spring 2011 (Style.com ) - cuff Aurélie Biedermann 375 euros - earrings Honorine Jewels 780 euros

Other brands and designers went further in the "Back to the Garden"'s theme. The D&G woman looks like a real countrygirl and even the very elegant Valentino launched a limited collection called "Garden Party". The clothes of that line have got a very romantic print which reminds watercolours. For the accessories, straw is the key material ( real or imitation ) : bags and especially hats, such as Stetson's. The fields are an unlimited source of inspiration, as wheat is honoured by many designers : Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton of course, but also in jewellery and in the Fall collection of Rodarte, the brand which turns up.

T-shirt Lila Hudson at Pixie Market $137 - eye shadow Shu Uemura £16 - bag Valentino 980 euros - necklace Marion Godart 45 euros - headband Topshop £4

Why this sudden attraction for the countryside ? Is it a reference to the Original Garden, the garden of Eden ? Is it a wish of fertility after crisis times ? Or, modeled after those celebrities, actresses, designers and models such as Natalie Portman, Cameron Diaz, Gisele Bundchen and Stella McCartney, who proclaim their "green attitude" ? At all events, green is the new black. In many catwalks, models were wearing grass-green eye shadow ( Dior, Loewe, Alberta Ferretti ). Flowers are the It accessories, as headbands or necklaces, but also fruits and various plants such as clover.

Red dress Carolina Herrera Spring 2011 (Style.com) - dress Simeon Farrar £210 - ring Topshop £12,50

Last year, Miu Miu was the first to use the swallow as a print. Now, the iconic bird of Spring is everywhere, even in my garden ( those 5 cute little fellows in the picture above were photographed by me )and soon, all the animals of the contryside would be well reprensented too. But I will raise objections against cows. I HATE cows, so please, don't put them everywhere.
All those clothes, accessories and pictures are tempting us, and at Vogue Paris, Emmanuelle Alt and her team have realized our dreams of liberty and nature with their photoshot with Gisele, in pure white on a country road ... So, like Joni Mitchell, let's go down to Yasgur's Farm, join a rock'n'roll band, camp out on the land and set our soul free ...

Spotlight : Jan Welters and the Pop Motion

2011-03-24T11:02:00.001Z

Stiletto Magazine

It's been a while since I've last posted about fashion photography. The reason was simple : I didn't find something catchy enough to be noticed here. The pictures I saw of the Spring season were all the same, with odd postures, tousled models and a remarkable lack of originality, even of beauty. I was quite deceived until I saw the cover of French magazine Stiletto. At least something vivid, something simple yet effective with a great work on the trendy colours of the season and an elegant posture. The serie of pictures inside is of the same quality. The model is emphasized, the clothes too, which is clearly the main goal of fashion photography, but also, the result is beautiful. The artist behind this is Dutch photographer Jan Welters.

Jan Welters is not very famous yet, but he already worked with many great names, including Vogue, Elle, Jil Sander, Eres, Mango and many trendy French brands, such as IKKS and Zadig&Voltaire. His recipe is quite simple : a fusion between delicate contrasting colours and a mastered rotation of the chest and limbs. Nothing agressive, nor fiendish, but the magic works.

Now based in Paris, the photographer seems to favour colour, something I appreciate, even if I like his black and white pictures too. These remind me of the work of photographer Marc Philbert and director Ruth Hogben.

Cheryl Cole - Marion Cotillard

Already impressive, the portfolio of Jan prides itself on the presence of many international celebrities, from singer Cheryl Cole to actresses Marion Cotillard ( when she was still decent ), Tilda Swinton and many models, such as Natalia Vodianova.
Admittedly, this is not as exciting as the provocations of a David Lachapelle or the power of a Nick Knight, but we need to encourage this type of photography, first to see what these young talents have in their guts, and secondly because fashion needs quality, and not just fair or even dirty illustrations. Yes, I like boldness, punk and wildness. But I also think that cleanliness and simplicity are still the best tools to promote clothes.
http://www.janwelters.com/
all images copyright Jan Welters, all rights reserved.

A quick article, because I'm working for mags. You have to be a bit patient, but I am still on the fashion front for you, faithful readers ! :)

Fashion : Haider Ackermann, the Man with the Gift

2011-03-18T14:48:00.000Z

Fall 2011 (©Style.com)

When the magazines started to talk about Haider Ackermann, I was quite divided. At the same time, I was touched by his Arthur Rimbaud's attitude, the traveller who collected silhouettes and who refused to be captured in a box, but as I am perfectly stubborn, I refused to be mainstream and like what I was told to. So, I carried on observing Haider's work without making up my mind. One day, while I was leafing through an issue of magazine Numero, I saw a picture with various objects put on a box. Among them were small reproductions of one of my favourite painting, Noblemen with his Hand on his Chest, by painter El Greco. The box was Haider's. And there, the penny dropped.

(©Vogue.com)

All those fluid drapes, those vivid colours, all the soft clothes with their exquisite motion on the catwalk, during his Spring Summer 2011 collection ... I saw the likeness with the long white silhouettes of El Greco, dressed with free tunics of colours. It touches me more than the notes of the magazines, talking of women witnessed during his childhood in Africa. I mean, every designer can tell a story to the Press. Now, I was really appreciating Haider Ackermann as the poet he really was. Yes, he was one of the first to jump on the wagon of bright colours, I even quoted him in my article "Vitamin Your Style". But there is something more delicate in the way he treated it : his blue, for example, used with black, is shrewd. He is the only one, with Gareth Pugh ( in his Fall collection ), to have celebrate my favourite colour that well.

(©A.P.C.)

Now, I understand perfectly the fusional relationship, even couple relationship, he keeps going with the Queen of Elves, the Sorceress of Fashion, Tilda Swinton. She perfectly embodies his style, much more than Janet Jackson who is clearly only swearing by his designs because he is now trendy. I am not saying that you need to be thin and androgynous to wear his clothes, but I feel they are more spiritual than most of the clothes selling nowadays. Perhaps because Ackermann's collections remind us of Asia, this mysterious ancient Japan with samurais and geishas and this magic India with old gurus.

(©EPA)

The Industry and Press also seem to be careful with this rising star, but not for the same reason as I was. They acclaim him; Karl Lagerfeld for example give him his special blessing and you know how the German designer is calling the shots. But when Haider's name is murmured for covering John Galliano at Dior, they say that he is too "young", too "inexperienced". Really ? Did they see his Fall 2011 collection ? If it's not mastering, I don't know what it is. It is even too "Diorian" for a Ackermann's show, as if he was sending the French House of Couture a visual résumé ... The silhouettes of the Ackermann's woman, indeed, assert themselves, perhaps gentrified a little too much. But just a little. There is still wildness here.

Fall 2011 (©Style.com)

Only time will allow us to appreciate the numerous facets of this intriguing designer, but what is certain is that he is in control. No faux-pas until now, but a solid personality. Could he take on the responsability of Dior or any other famous line, besides his ? Is he too independant, or able to play with the messages ? These are now the questions concerning Haider Ackermann. The question of his legitimacy is already forgotten : it is now obvious that the Colombian designer, based in Belgium, is part of the Grands, and a name which is intimately bind with the future.

(©Scott Schuman)

http://www.haiderackermann.be/
http://www.luisaviaroma.com/
http://www.thecorner.com/

IFB's Links a la Mode

2011-03-17T14:53:00.001Z

It's a bloggy-blog world....
Edited by Jessie Thorpe of Denimology
Hi all! I'm Jessie from Denimology and I am happy to be one of IFB's new Links à la Mode editors! In the last couple of years, bloggers are being heard far and wide and across the globe. I am happy to be sharing the locations around the interwebs that interest little ol' me with all of you. Included in this weeks links: how to fake that you've gotten enough sleep to Gilt's Disaster Relief Fund and a first hand account of Target's Go International dress collection launch. Get to clicking and show your fellow blogger's some lovin'.

Links à la Mode: March 17th

Aesthetic Alterations: Tips on how to acquire authentic Hermès scarves safely on ebay
Blah Blah Becky: The fashion world's pattern du jour
Chic 'n Cheap Living: 70s minimalist chic via Zara's Spring/summer 2011 collection
ChiTown Fashionista: A quick chat with Jimmy Choo's Tamara Mellon
Cross That: intersection of fashion and photography: the dreamy mind of Rodney Smith
Denimology: Denim Outfit of the week - Denim Outfit of the Week
Fashables: Target's Go International Designer Collective Dresses Party
Fashion is Evolution: Why sleep masks rock, how they can be stylish, and my quest to make a masculine one for my boyfriend
illustrator Claire: Shorts, suspenders and sluttiness
Independent Fashion Bloggers: The Role of Blogs in the Community
Joanne Faith: Killer Fashion Blogging: 50 Tips, Tools and Other Tactics to Take Your Fashion Blog to the Next Level
Make The World A Prettier Place: The Adorable Style of Emma Pillsbury
Piewacket: Cherry blossoms and a Digital Mag
Sample Sale Sites: Gilt City Disaster Relief
Starting From Scratch: How to fake you've gotten plenty of sleep
Street Stalker: A review of Dior's A/W2011 Collection from Paris Fashion Week and John Galliano's farewell show
Styling You: How to style a jacket with a maxi skirt
Superstylin: Style Showdown: Beverly Hills 90210 vs. My So-Called Life
The Column of Samantha Tyler: When occultism comes to fashion: too much or brilliant?
The Fashion Turd: Skull-tastic! Mexican folk mask from House of Guadalupe
The Style Circuit: Neutrals: Why They're Essential to Any Spring Wardrobe

Fashion : Occult Audacity

2011-03-14T12:05:00.002Z

Vogue Paris (Models.com)

Obviously, this year is very spiritual. I introduced it with an humorous article on Astrology, End of the World and Christopher Kane, and went on with a guide of trendy protections ( Shopping : Paranormal Activity ). But things reached a higher level with the launch of Marios Schwab Spring Summer collection : the London-based young designer adorned his clothes and accessories with occult symbols. Pentacles, Horus eyes, triangles, Freemasons compass, etc. The whole collection plays with the vintage esoteric drawings with a very surprising result. Bold or too risqué ?

Marios Schwab S/S 2011 (Style.com)

Indeed, those symbols are not senseless ones. Some of them are sharing very strong meanings, which still scare some people. Things related to Freemasonry are not always well-perceived and each times the order's symbols are used, or thought to have been used, it causes an avalanche of reactions on internet. Artists using the triangle symbol for example, such as Rihanna, Jay-Z and Lady Gaga, have been accused of being freemasons. I won't launch into a decoding of this, because it would certainly cause a fierce debate and I'm not interested on doing this because conspiracies and such things bore me.

Francisco Goya - Flying witches

I'm not into black magic or occultism, but I have to admit that mysterious imagery entertains and attracts me. I am found of those old engraving of Baldung Grien showing witches, by the paintings of Goya illustrating witching hours, all the illustrations of those old books of ancient medecine and modern fantasy art. For example, I am really found of Emily the Strange's sibylline world. So, Schwab's clothes seduce me, but at the same time, I think it is perhaps too provocative. I would not go out with them, except discreet accessories such as the purse and shoes. It is not that I'm scared by their meaning; not at all. But I don't want to run in my aunt's path, you know the one who thinks that aliens exist and who talks with spirits. I don't believe in those things, so it would be inapropriate to show off with those symbols.

Marios Schwab shoes (Style.com)

What I would definitely wear are prints inspired by those symbols. Not mocking them : just paying tribute to the aesthetics. I picked two examples for you. First is a very cute dress of the Emily the Strange's clothing line, which reminds this interesting top from Marios Schwab's collection. Then, there are those crazy-fun-amazing thighs by Rodarte for Opening Ceremony which creates the effect of tatoos, without the pain and permanency, and have enigmatic vintage symbols on them. Great ways to be edgy without being too much provocative. And I guess, also less expensive ...

Emily the Strange 37,99 euros - Marios Schwab (Style.com)

Rodarte for Opening Ceremony $110,00

Special message : I won't advice you to buy Lady Gaga's prayer bracelets, but if you could have a strong and empathic thought for the people of Japan who are enduring something really close to the end of the world right now, and who don't find it funny at all, that would be a great thing. I hope things will be alright for them and I wish them good luck.

Spotlight : (Not so desperate) Business Wives

2011-03-10T16:47:00.002Z

These days, the 7th art is really disappointing : I didn't see Black Swan because I don't like those kind of movies which are so stressful you exit the auditorium with an uncontrollable need of chocolate, sweets and teddy bears to comfort you after this dreadful experience. I don't want sordid plots where the woman is led to madness and angst, I want to watch something to make me feel good, to entertain me with a strong heroine who has got the sense of humour, and who win over her difficulties. And in movies and literature, these days, it is quite impossible to find that ( at least in the examples I've seen lately ). So, I've turned myself toward what seems to become a shoot of the Cinema's tree : TV series. No more telenovelas, now series are treated like real movies, with renowned directors and actors, and brilliant plots. Everyone talked a lot about Boardwalk Empire, a bit less about a serie I consider one of the best I've ever seen so far : The Good Wife. The plot itself isn't very exciting : the wife of a politician, charged with corruption and sexual affairs with prostitutes, is forced to come back into the cruel world of work, in a lawyers office. But the writers are clever and the directing staff efficient, as the episodes are all dynamic with interesting subjects, with excellent wits, intense acting and crafty humour. For the persons who hated the judicial series ( it was the case for me ), you will forget your a priori.

Julianna Margulies as Alicia Florrick in The Good Wife ( not the best examples but internet is a bit poor in series pictures )

If the character of Alicia ( played by Julianna Margulies, former E.R. star ) is a bit fragile and dominated by her husband and her situation in the beginning on the season one, she finally wins her independance thanks to the company of women who already have to show their guts in this world of men. Talking of fashion, Alicia is suscribed to high collars and strict suits, but the wardrobe assistant emphasizes her character with a lot of stretch dark red and blue. The red means at the same times that she is looking for her independance, at the same time in her career, her family life and sexuality, but also that she is still stained by the sin of her husband.
A character in a subdued style who fight her habit to give in toward men, played with nuances by Julianna Margulies, but who, more than anything, is a foil for secondary feminine characters.

Left : Christine Baranski as Diane Lockhart

Alicia is a little thing compared to the female associate of the office, flamboyant Diane Lockhart, a woman with claws and mischievous eyes and lines. If we can regret the Botox, Christine Baranski offers us a show of elegant outfits and sexy dresses which proves that women over 40 can look great without playing the lolitas. It is also good to see the discreet complicity of the two women, very welcome after the creepy relationship between Ellen Parsons (Rose Byrne) and Patty Hewes (Glenn Close) in the anxiogenic Damages. I was in love with the wardrobe of Ellen, and Patty looked stunning, but the serie was really too disturbing. The outfits of Damages should be injected in The Good Wife, for the pleasure of our eyes and for this poor Alicia.

Rose Byrne and Glenn Close in Damages

But the most interesting female character is definitely those of Kalinda ( played by Brit Archie Penjabi ) an admirable young private who knows how to manipulate men with a lot of cunning, style and humour. If her make-up is a bit too outré and her hairdo too strict, her outfits are always great, with a lot of leather, mini skirts and nice colours, such as her purple coat ( not pictured ). It is great to see an actress, from what Holywood calls a "minority", being offered such an enhancive role. Archie is definitely the revelation of The Good Wife and I hope that Hollywood would learn the lesson.

Archie Panjabi as Kalinda Sharma in The Good Wife

I was not excited that much by the wardrobes of heroines of trendy series such as Sex and the City or Ugly Betty. The outfits used in the world of Fashion are sometimes very excessive and are not in phase with the real lives of real women ( with normal morphologies ! ). So, I am much more touched by the series which show working girls. We can put ourselves in their skins, and more importantly, in their clothes. Because few are the women who can wear Alexander McQueen or Dior in real life. You have to be a bit wiser and to admit that we, normal women, have to wear clothes suited to our lives. But of course, we want to be elegant and beautiful in each aspect of them. I suggest that we stop dreaming about the fashionistas of Gossip Girl, with their unlimited budget, and that we start admiring true role models with true wardrobes. You can dress soberly, even with some gorgeous pieces, as Kelli Williams, who plays the psychologist Dr Gillian Foster in Lie to Me, proves it perfectly ...

Kelli Williams in Lie to Me

Yes, the magazines show us great styles, and we can dream to own extravagant luxury goods, but a superheroine usually wears something that fit the work she has to do. A leotard to save the world, a Marchesa dress to walk the carpet at the Oscars, and office dresses to go to work and take the public transportation ... Frustrated, unsatisfied, rebellious ? If you want to change your wardrobe, then change your life. Too hard ? Then, there is only one option : being magnificent in a suit ... I'm sure you can ! And after an hard day at work, if you are tired of trying to be perfect, just collapse in your sofa and watch The Good Wife ...

Decoding : "Talonted" !

2011-03-07T14:15:00.001Z

All Saints (£155 and £175)

In the past, we used to do the curtsey : this exercise was first a social sign for respect, but also a good way to show your grace and excellent deportment. Now, it is obsolete, and quite regrettable and not only for the daily gymnastics it forced you to do, but because it would be a quite convenient way to admire our peers' shoes. Indeed, shoes are now a powerful part of an outfit, and customers are getting more and more daring with what they choose. But, face it, it is a pity to wear extravagant shoes because you're incuring the risk of them being ignored. Except if we reintroduce curstey ... And then, your fruity Charlotte Olympia would never been missed again ! But when it comes to the heel, this smart idea is finding its limits.

Jeffrey Campbell (I Don't Like Mondays, out of stock) - Alexander McQueen (price on demand)

In French, le talon. Hence the title, a pun with "talented". The heel is designers' new whim for some seasons. The most famous examples are of course the creations of Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, but slowly, the heel is starting to become one of the most important part of an outfit. Is it a new "Follow me, young man" ? Or just a fantasy that doesn't really survive the transfer from the catwalks to the streets ? Why spending so much work and attention in a part which is not clearly visible ? That sounds like an excessive luxury. But heels have been a strong symbol of feminity for ages. Stilettos are a weapon of sensuality. It is very simple : a sexy curve and a sense of power, due to the threat of the point. So, sculpted, finely-worked heels have got a meaning too. They are all extremely solid, even monolithic. If stilettos were associated with knives, those remind of guns grips ! But they are pacific, and their message seems to be "Art not War" ! 

Rodarte (Style.com) - Meadham Kirchhof (Stylerookie)

The heel is a new way to express the talent of a designer. They can do what they want with it, treating it like a real medium for their artistic sense. Scuplted in wood or metal, it can be minimalistic, such as a contemporary sculpture. Some prefers it more baroque, and imitates the stucco of the architecture Grand Siècle. With gold, it turns luxuous, with sequins, it gets pop. Ralph Lauren prefered silver, Christian Dior worked it in the way of a Art Déco glass-blower. Everything is possible. But is Art the only meaning of those complicated heels ? It is also a statement, a way to show your uniqueness in a world of mainstream culture and production at grand-scale. Yes, women still want to be sexy. But they also want to be remarkable.
As for me, you know I'm not a great defender of heels, but I appreciate the effort, as a strong supporter of art. But I still can't picture myself perched on those things.

Trend : Vitamin your Style

2011-03-01T15:38:00.001Z

Gucci S/S 2011 ad

My active readers would think that I am wittering on because I've already made articles on that subject ( see Rainbow Warriors and another one, "I am a Giant Bubble Gum"). But Saturday evening, while I was at Somerset House for Vodafone London Fashion Weekend, I was particularly stricken by the violent revival of colours, and how people had the audace of wearing outfits mixing them. Of course, it was specially visible on the collections of the present designers ( here, allow me to heart Mark Fast ) but it was really remarkable on the women around me. The days before, I was in France, and here, everyone is clad in black. A street in Paris looks like the painting of Emile Friant "All Saints'Day" and photographers are forced to change their adjustements if they want to add contrast to their work. Depressing. Parisians, and French people in general, need an urgent extreme make-over, because their neighbours of Great Britain are already in Springtime.

Kurt Geiger S/S 2011 ad

In Kensington, the cherry trees are in bloom, as well as the store windows. Those of Bond Street are as vitamined as the stalls of a greengrocers, and let me tell you IT FEELS GOOD ! I love black, grey and white, but it's time to show we are alive, not bereaved. The summer campaign of Dolce & Gabbana, for example, with its Italian mammas makes me feel black, I mean, blue ... Throw your black lace, it is time for a come-back of joy, that excitement they had in the 20s, 30s, 60s and 70s. Listen to the music back then : that was joyful ! I feel this spirit when I see the clothes of Gucci's S/S collection. Their colours are amazing and wake up the pages of every magazine ( except Katy Perry in the cover of Elle, I don't know why but she succeeded in fading the clothes she's wearing ... ).

Topshop.com

And the Italian brand is not the only one to rock the accumulation of colours. The catwalks were full of them. I won't repeat my previous articles, but for the new readers, let's quote Jil Sander. The advertisements are also more funky, and not only because the smiles are back ( Sportmax, Kurt Geiger, Versace ) and on the catwalks, the actresses have launched a real battle between colour blocks and nude. For the Oscars, my votes go to Scarlett Johansson and Jennifer Lawrence. And it's the easiest trend to follow : you can easily buy great pieces at low prices, as a very simple tee with a catchy colour will make the best effect on every outfit. Brands such as Topshop, Jaeger and Wallis are offering a wide choice of bright-coloured basics.

Hairstyling at Meadham Kirchoff S/S 2011 show ( copyright unknown )

And on the side of beauty, colours are also omnipresent : be bold with your make-up, but also with your hair. You can dare the splash of colour a la Altuzarra or the total glam rock hairdo inspired by Meadham Kirchoff.
A special mention for the trend of the fruits prints : a more direct way to claim your dose of vitamins ! I who generally avoid prints, I am seduced by the oranges, the bananas and the citrus of Stella McCartney, Prada and Moschino Cheap and Chic. Fashion is, this season, the only place where you can choose both natural and chemical products, without risks for your health ! I don't know you, but I, I will not deprive myself and pick both up again !

Haider Ackermann S/S 2011 ( Style.com )

bag Karen Millen

Stella McCartney dress worn by Freja Beha Erichsen in Vogue Paris

Decoding : Fashion, the Tenth Art ?

2011-02-24T11:03:00.001Z

The execution of Lady Grey by Delaroche (detail)

Two days ago, I've had a strange encounter at London Fashion Week during the Giles' show, at the Royal Court of Justice. No, it wasn't Pixie Geldof, but a certain Lady Grey. Is she a close relative to Lady Gaga ? Not at all, Jane Grey was a 16th century English noblewoman who was queen during nine days before her execution for high treason. This woman is mainly famous for a painting of the said execution, by French painter Paul Delaroche. As you suspect, I don't have medium's skills, so, when I talk of encounter, I describe my surprise to see the face of Miss Grey on several outfits of designer Giles Deacon. For me, it was especially relevant to find the detail of a famous painting used as the main pattern of a fashion collection, and I was quite amazed that no one thought about it before.

Giles Fall 2011 ( Style.com )

Fashion, after all, is just an art like another. Critics accuse Haute Couture of being "Art for Art", that is to say something unwearable, pricey and totally useless. Designers such as Gareth Pugh are forced to defend themselves against that accusation, and to prove that their creations are made for stores and not for galleries . But I don't fit into that scheme. I particularly agree with Vanessa Paradis when she declares that she goes to fashion shows as she would go to real shows, i.e. theatre, dance or another performance. I don't mind if a dress is wearable or not, affordable or not, if it is gorgeous and aesthetic, I consider that it equals a painting or a sculpture. I was maybe influenced by the Parnassian poets during my teenage years, but I proclaim the right to "l'Art pour l'Art" !

Alexander McQueen "Savage beauty" exhibition ( photo Sølve Sundsbø )

It seems that I am not alone in this process. Museums are opening their doors to designers, launching exhibitions for them as they would do it for masters of paintings, sculpture and photography. This Spring, the Metropolitan Museum of New York will host an exhibition devoted to Alexander McQueen at its Costume Institute. In London, the Victoria & Albert Museum will take a special interest in designer Yohji Yamamoto in March, and in Paris, the Museum of Quai Branly shows the close relationship between East and Christian Lacroix. Long past, fashion photography has been considered as artistic. It is not surprising then that the clothes themselves would enter in the spheres of Fine Arts. To when the creation of Fashion gelleries ? It is nearly here : some brands have already launched short-lived concept stores, mixing clothes with contemporary exhibitions ...

Sergio Rossi "Idol" bodice

The dialogue between art and fashion started with the artists themselves. Painter Dalì influenced designer Elsa Schiaparelli, but he was a designer himself : he created jewels, and many other artists did the same ( Cesar, Picasso and Arman to name few ). The March issue of Vogue Paris incidentally pays a tribute to the famous artist and finds its inspiration in surrealism.
Not surprising then that jewellers and designers would venture in the world of sculpture : I have already told you about Jordan Askill, but the Fashion Week also reavealed Erickson Beaman, and brand Sergio Rossi launched a surprising line of accessories, close to classic Greek sculpture.

Elle Fanning in a video for Rodarte

Then, Contemporary Art starts to blend in with Fashion : when art performer Olympia Scarry wants to create an art statement at Art Basel, she chooses to appear in a burqua at Playboy's party. But not an ordinary burqua : this one was a piece of black lace and silk custom-tailored by Riccardo Tisci himself ... The designer, at the head of the Givenchy House of Couture, has already expressed his will to send fashion back into the world of luxury and, inevitably, of Art.
Indeed, each Art can easily flirt with Fashion : you can see my article on Architecture and the Lourenços, many singers are moving Music closer to Couture, Comics are often seen in t-shirts, and Dance is in the spotlight since the success of Black Swan ( with costumes by Rodarte ). The 7th art is not forgotten : talking of Rodarte, we have spotted actress Elle Fanning in their last video, a genre which grows faster in the Industry, with Tom Ford distinguishing himself in the cinema. From here, we can imagine more meetings with poetry, literature, gastronomy, television and more ... Imagination has no limit, and so is Art. So, let's create !

A girl, a style : Emma Who ?

2011-02-21T10:59:00.005Z

"Gimme that trophy, you old cow!" Emma W. (copyright unknown)

Someone had got a great moment of solitude last week. No, it wasn't Lady Gaga doing her Tweety Bird at the Grammys, but someone called Emma Watson during the Elle Style Awards. Vivienne Westwood, the famous veteran designer, who was supposed to give her the Best Dressed Award, declared in front of the whole audience that she didn't have a clue of who this kid was ... Quite ironic, isn't it ? How could you deserve that kind of award if one of the most powerful designers of the world doesn't even know you ? I see you coming, don't blame it on Alzheimer. Because, really : who the hell is Emma Watson ?

(copyright unknown)

I know, I know ... I should empathize with her, because that kid really seems to have an issue with fame. For example, she seems to have a secret talent for public humiliation, with a collection of wardrobe malfunction close to great art. But, I can't help it, for me she has the profile of the perfect punch-bag.

First, I can't consider her as an actress because for me, what she did in Harry Potter was certainly not acting : at best, these movies are school shows with special effects. Secondly, I don't understand why everyone is rhapsodizing about her pseudo sense of style. I beg you pardon ? Emma Watson, stylish ??? Let's be a bit serious for once. Most of the time, she looks like a little girl who has borrowed her mummy's clothes and make-up. When she slips on a Burberry jacket, it is a gulag version of Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver !

Marie Claire December 2010

And her pixie crop ( see my article "Pixie crop someone ?" ) is a total disaster. She wanted to be the new Jean Seberg or the new Edie Sedgwick but she looks more like a post-cancer Izzie Stevens or Martine, an heroine of French vintage illustrated books for children. If you cut your hair to look more mature, avoid to put a childish flower on it ... I swear you, I'm trying really hard to like Emma Watson, but I just can't. She reminds me those pictures of kittens : cute, of course, but totally hokey.

Martine

Emma Watson is a young girl who had the luck to become famous really soon, and as she is an idol for the young public, many brands are using her image for their marketing campaigns. But that doesn't mean that she has got a natural sense of fashion. She's wearing what she's told to, and most of the times, it is more than silly. Stop trying to put edgy dresses on her, she's subscribed to Peter Pan collars and polished shoes. Miss Watson must grow up a little more if she wants to become a real fashionista.
But as for now, Emma darling, go back playing with your Little Pony and leave Grandma Westwood in peace !

IFB's Links a la Mode

2011-02-19T14:33:00.001Z

Fashion Week's Inspirations

Edited by Marie Denee of The Curvy Fashionista
During the midst of New York Fashion Week, fashion took another direction. Beyond the beauty of an artist’s creation, fashion bloggers take their inspirations to raise questions, reflect, challenge the status quo, create and fashion pieces of their own, and analyze the trends in digital and social media- nevertheless, fashion inspired. With this inspiration comes an eclectic look into this week’s Links a la mode.

Links à la Mode: February 17th, 2011

Alterations Needed: Getting a dress altered - before, after, and the thought process in between.
Beyond Fabric: Embracing a more stylish ride
Brunette Blogging: Blog Seasons - How different seasons have an impact on your blog
College Girl: Liberty London Girl spares her time to answer some in depth questions about her blogging experiences and gives amateur bloggers some exceptional advice in the process...
Dressing With Courage: Valentine's Day lingerie: Take back the sexy
Fashion Writes: Let's Get Digital. Digital. Women are small in numbers in the always-enhancing and ever-evolving tech side of the fashion industry, but we as fashion bloggers are going to begin skewing the curves.
Independent Fashion Bloggers: A blogger's moment with Anna Wintour at Milk Studios
Katrya-Kyla: "Print vs Video: The Industry's New Plan of Attack"
Khola's Kloset: Looking Back: The models and images that made fashion special
Lariza da Blog: my struggle with the vanity of fashion blogging:
Metallic Kiwi: Top black models emerging within the industry.
Most Serene Rabbit: Is there really such thing as ethical leather? Why is there a double standard when it comes to ethics In the fur and leather industries?
Previously Owned: BEHIND THE GLITZ- Q&A with designer Carolina Rodriguez about her food/fashion/music inspiration
Same Sensibility: Rihanna just ruined your Valentine's
Scrap and Run: Why I remix
Seamstress Stories: High heels yay, headscarf nay? Double standards in the symbolic value assigned to female clothing.
Style by Santina: My "Happy" Weight: When the Body and Brain Disagree
The Button Owl: Why your creative space identifies the real you just as much as your outer image.
The Coveted:Running into Anna Dello Russo at NYFW
The Curvy Fashionista: “DIY Diva” inspiration with Be Vain or DIY Trying
The Demoiselles: Crystal Renn on body image and pressure from the media.

PS : Hey Guys, the name of the blog is "The column of Samantha Tyler" !!! :)

Trend : Restraining Order

2011-02-14T15:09:00.001Z

Hermes SS2011 Style.com

***First of all, my apologies for the lack of articles the previous week : I wrote for magazines instead, with a lot of meetings and work. But now, back to my personal business.***

The other day, I stumbled accross Rihanna's new video and my first thought have been "Ouch!". Not because I caught a flick of her whip, but because I was thinking about that theory which says that ridicule doesn't kill. For a girl who's got a lot of bad publicity because of a former abusive boyfriend, I don't think it is very pertinent to release a song and video which scream "OH PLEASE HURT ME!" ... Well, I guess this is just my point of view, and that she mainly wanted to criticize the ambiguous relationship between an artist and medias, this without being familiar with the concept of subtlety ... But I also caught all the references to David LaChapelle and spotted a Fleet Ilya's belt when she walks her 50s milkman-dog. Wait a minute. Is it me or the brand seems to have got a strong connivance with the all-of-a-sudden dominatrix singer, and also with the whole Industry ? Does this latter need a whiplash after crisis ?

Hermes SS2011 Style.com

For many decades now, women have been liberated, thanks to the magazines and designers. Decades of freedom to work, to have sex when you want, to wear what you want and to live how you want. How exhausting ! But Industry is so caring it has developped products which would ease our angsts of free bitches ... I guess we are all unaware of the comfort a 50s housewife's outfit could bring ! Ha, being devoted mothers and wives -with that emblematic idiotic smile-, again ! But for the die-hard out there, who can't help thinking by themselves, I guess bondage would be the radical cure. And, good for you ! You don't have to humiliate yourself again in a sex shop because you can't find your size of corset, because bondage is quietly becoming mainstream. Example ? No, no, the Spring Summer collection of Hermes is not equestrian-themed. The guys didn't fool Carine Roitfield, the queen of porno chic, and I guess you don't need a degree to add leather + straps + whips and find what it truly means ...

Bordelle

But I guess it is just a little bit more subtle than Rihanna learning Shibari ( the japanese art of restraining ). Another winner in the categories of "You saw it coming, don't you ?" and "I found myself very smart when I've decided of that name" is brand Bordelle which directly refers to the french word for brothel ( with a mistake s'il vous plaît ). Its products ? Lingerie. But the kind of lingerie you fear to discover inside the cute little gift-wrap Darling gave you on Valentine's. The one which remind you that 1) you've failed your diet AGAIN 2) you've forgot to buy talc AGAIN 3) your mother was right AGAIN. I guess you totally know what I mean.

Plein Sud

As it is actually Valentine's Day today, let me give you some hints of what you could receive this night : a dress which wants to be sexy but screams "YOU'RE MY LITTLE UNDERPANTS WASHER !" instead ( All Saints ), a dress (yes, I swear you, they call it a dress !) which will be very creative this summer with the appropriate tanning and which would totally consolitade your mother-in-law in the idea that you are totally insane ( Plein Sud ), and accessories which will turn Wonder Woman and Leigh Bowery totally green with envy ( Gabriella Marina Gonzalez ). But if he gifts you with a Phylea ball-gag (yes he stole and secretly read your Numero magazine ) don't do your Rihanna : that will be definitely the signal to FLEE.

Oh, did I just spoiled your Valentine's surprise ??? I'm such a naughty girl ...

All Saints £135,00

Fashion : Maxime Simoens, an Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove

2011-02-03T11:47:00.002Z

Design of Maxime Simoens S/S 2010 collection

A new decade implies new faces in the fashion Industry, the great designers have to make room for a new generation, young people who have a brand new look on fashion, heirs of a tradition but also turned toward our future. French designer Maxime Simoens is one of these new names who were picked this year to join the very private circle of French Couture. The 27 years old man from Lille, in the north of France, seems to be the one to follow.

Gossip Girls ( copyright unknown )

He has worked for the best and learnt the lessons : from Elie Saab, he learnt the uncluttered lines; from Jean-Paul Gaultier, the gothic kitsch. But, as every young designer, his goal is to play solo. Last year, he decided to run his own house and was soon spotted on the fashion radars and became one of the designers working on famous TV show Gossip Girl. You have seen his dresses on Blair, but unfortunately she didn't emphasize them.

S/S 2011 collection

Simoens' style is a bit gothic, and that doesn't match with the character played by Leighton Meester at all. Indeed, the young designer has got an obession for crosses, and his clothes have a rare dark elegance. The lines are almost military, with strict shoulders, an habit which was also caught by an other French talent, Alexandre Vauthier ( see my article on him ). On his 3 first collections, the main word has been luxury : satin, fur, leather, gold prints, everything is really meticulous, even cold, but beneath this wise appearance, there is a passionate soul.

A/W 2010 collection

Many journalists have linked him with Yves Saint Laurent, for his physical appearance, but also because some dresses reminded the designer, especially his Mondrian dresses of 1965 and 2002. We can also spot some influences of Alexander McQueen. The work is of great quality, and very sober, ideal for modern women. Thus, everyone is now fighting over the young talent. French mail order retailer 3 Suisses has decided to give him a good publicity by offering exclusive to its clients classy outfits for a very reasonable price.

A/W 2010 collection

In his first collection, Maxime Simoens imitated the cover of Michael Jackson's disc 'Dangerous' : I guess this is a message for competitors ... With his sharp looks, mixing templars knights and seducive witches, Simoens has got some effective weapons to fight in the tought world of fashion. We wish him to be victorious.

Exclusive clothes created for 3 Suisses

Photos http://www.maximesimoens.com/
Shop at http://www.stylebop.com/

Trend : Ten Killer Details for 2011

2011-02-01T10:57:00.002Z

Richard Nicoll at 3 Suisses

Needing ideas to spice up your summer wardrobe without ruining yourself ? I've spotted 10 easy fashion details that would help you being trendy and penny-wise at the same time. This summer, there are three important influences that you need to master : Arabian nights ( with the indigo blue ), Gothic ( make-up and accessories ) and Punk ( "do-it-yourself" ).

The Smock
The stripes are back, but avoid bright colors, only great on the catwalks. Instead, choose the smock, that classic sailor's T, which uses the trendy colour of the season and which is modernized with leggings, leather shorts or leather jacket. Of course, it is the main piece of Tommy Hilfiger's collection, but you can easily buy unexpensive versions.

Isabel Marant (Style.com)

The Hairnet
Once the prerogative of 80s ravers ( in Day-Glo ) and of gothics ( in black ), the hairnet settles down in white. You can play with its transparency, to emphasize a top or to reveal your body. You can wear it with summer skirts and shorts, a la Isabel Marant, or keep its rock attitude with a perfecto ( by Guess Jeans ). In army green, it will extend the military trend.

1060 Clothes

The Suspenders
This is a detail that really caught my eye. It is punky, original and very simple to do. Use them to structure a loose t-shirt, for a boyish yet chic attitude.

Paul Smith (Style.com)

The Armband
Spice up the boyish shirt with a very elegant detail : tie a silk scarf ( or a necktie ) to one of your arms, just a bit above the roll up sleeve. Of course, the shirt is white ( or clear blue ) and the scarf indigo.

Gucci ( Saks.com)

The Tassel
We have seen it everywhere on the catwalks during the fashion week : at Miu Miu on a dress, at Diane Von Furstenberg on a bag, at Vuitton as earrings and of course, at Gucci on belts ( gorgeous belts ! ). You can easily find cords with nice colours everywhere ( yes, curtain cords ) or do your own.

Kate Lanphear (photographer unknown, please contact me if it is your work)

The Cuffs
I've told you : heavy metal accessories are very trendy this season. We've seen them a lot on the collections. My favourites were those of Giorgio Armani, John Richmond and Etro. The editor of Elle, Kate Lanphear had already adopted them for her fierce look. It is definitely the jewels to wear this summer. You can buy them everywhere, but I recommend the tasty pieces of Felder Felder.

Giorgio Armani

The Tagelmust
This winter it was the turban, but in summer, we are staying in the desert and we steal the headgear of the Tuareg. In indigo, of course, matched with a blue eye-liner, black or blue jackets and silver jewels.

Authentique Panama (Vogue Paris, photographer Mario Sorrenti, Pucci dress )

The Wide-Brimmed Hat
Already seen on the celebs ( Rachel Bilson, Liv Tyler, Nicole Richie, to name few ), the wide-brimmed hat is the seminal details of the seasons. Seen in straw at Marc Jacobs, I prefer the black version worn by Lou Doillon for La Redoute or the one of American Apparel. To wear with a very long dress, preferably skin-tight to look slimmer or loose for a boho style.

Rick Owens (Style.com)

The Gothic Eye
The bold make-up is making its come-back, perhaps influenced by the poster of movie Black Swan. Spotted on the catwalk, the oversized smoky eyes of Rick Owens and the Manson-esque blue of Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Louis Vuitton (Style.com)

The Dark Red Lips
If you prefer to wear lipstick, you have to know that nude and peach shades are over. Now, the lips must be dark as seen on the models during the shows of Louis Vuitton and Yves Saint Laurent. But don't overload your face with smoky eyes, it is one or the other.

Voilà, you now have all the ingredients to parad this summer with style.

Shopping : Paranormal Activity

2011-01-27T10:36:00.005Z

French magazine

I already told you about my aliens-inspired aunt. I have also a cousin who locks herself in each time there is an eclipse or a change of year. We all have those persons in our circle who believe in supernatural events, who throw salt behind the shoulder, who are mystical or superstitious. I am agnostic, I have a black cat and I don't believe in poltergeists and chupacabras. But, lately, I was quite unlucky, you know these days were the car broke down, you have to walk under the rain without your umbrella, you catch a cold and everything goes wrong. So, I guess than having a little something against a potential "evil eye" can't be bad. You can chose something simple, such as Kate Moss and her necklace with a horseshoe, but here is a little supernatural shopping guide ...

Helmut Lang at Matches £165

If you believe in life after death and that good spirits could help you, you can go for ghost-print t-shirts, such as tops by Helmut Lang and Rick Owens. You would also need a good Ouija board.

Les Chiffoniers at Shopbob $560 - Shroud of Turin

For centuries, Christians have believed in the power of the relics. I guess than leggings inspired by the Shroud of Turin are better than reducted heads or bones of a saint. But if you like bones, I advice you to read my articles on Vanitas. Plus Givenchy t-shirts at Louisaviaroma and the jewellery designer Corpus Christi.

If you are not christian, I guess that voodoo and black magic can be useful too. Paint yourself with protection symbols or buy this mysterious top by Ann-Sofie Back for Topshop. You can also buy voodoo dolls and clothes inspired by them at http://loveandbones.com/. Complete your attire with a star hat by Justin Smith Esq.

Lito Karakostanoglou at Galerie BSL, price on demand

But perhaps something older could be more efficient. In Ancient Egypt, the scarab was a strong protector and always worn as an amulet. Jewellery creator Lito Karakostanoglou offers us a lot of these little bugs. If you hate insects, you can always turn yourself toward the power of the Daisy Jewellery chakra charm bracelets : http://www.my-wardrobe.com/daisy-jewellery or to Peruvian inspired charm by Nadka.

Albion Triketry by Pete Doherty - DimePiece collar $40 t-shirt $32 - Urban Outfitters 12 euros

But every movie about supernatural and evil forces have taught you that the best weapon was the cross. Pete Doherty might have been influenced by his former girlfriend Kate, as he has launched a collection of crosses. Ideal for exorcisms.

Truly Madly Deeply 12 euros

But if bad luck still follows you, you can always cheek her with a survivor attitude : to Hell and back ! The important thing is to believe in your good star, isn't it ?

Spotlight : The Great Circus of Ruth Hogben

2011-01-21T12:00:00.003Z

Insensate

You've already read about Ruth Hogben on this blog (see my article "A Future without Catwalks"). A full article on this artist sounds pretty obvious after my yesterday's philosophical thinking on body and fashion.

Ruth Hogben wanted to be a photographer at first, and she had the luck to become the assistant of one of the contemporary top dogs of this art, the famous Nick Knight. One day, while the master was shooting model Lily Donaldson, Hogben decided to use the photoshoot to make a short video. Interested, Knight decided to encourage his pupil in the way of fashion video, and they repeated the experience, within the framework of the website SHOWstudio.

Ruth Hogben

The duo have then worked for all the rising stars of fashion and design industry : Alexander McQueen, Lady Gaga, Phillipe Starck ... While Knight was shooting designers Rick Owens for magazine Arena Homme (2009), or Martin Margiela's strange hair clothes ( Make up your mind, 2008), his assistant built an impressive self career of fashion filmmaker. For Punk's heir Agent Provocateur, she created a serie of video entitled like a song of Billy Idol, White Wedding (2008), with kitsch and burlesque collages of Kate Moss in lingerie. More than clothes, what fascinates her the most is the body, the aestheticism and eroticism of its movement, as Buttock proves it. A whole video dedicated to this specific body part with a tribute to burlesque and SM, which seems to have escaped from a bobo documentary from Franco-German channel Arte. Not really my cup of tea though.

Perfect

Gareth Pugh A/W 2009

What I admire the most in Ruth's work are her more "personal" videos ( understand without the visible influence of Nick Knight ), especially the ones she did for designers Pheobe Philo for Celine and Gareth Pugh. Perfect (2010), her video for Celine, focuses on the discreet elegance of the brand and the sensual body language of the model in a succession of peaceful portaits which delicate light reminds us of Renaissance's paintings. But with Pugh, the filmmaker reaches her height. The unusual shapes and the materials used by the British genius create a genuine alchemy with Hogben's fascination with movement and light.

Gareth Pugh Pitti Immagine 2011

Insensate (2008) is a modern version of Shakespeare's suicide scene of Ophelia. Water, and liquids in general, are a recurring tool in Hogben's videos. For this one, she told us a dark tale, mixing mythology, vampiric imagery and horror movies ( listen to the music ). She starts playing with the Chiaroscuro, a technique used in painting and photography to accentuate the silhouettes. It's a game of shadows, of light and of darkness : the videos are either too dark or too bright, and as Pugh's clothes, often in graphic black and white. The only notable explosion of colours in Hogben's filmography are Frieze (2009), an acid trip in a pop and country music (!) universe, and Untitled (2009), which might have inspired singer Kesha.

Joie de Vivre

But aside her use of classical arts ( painting and classic sculpture ), she seems extremely influenced by burlesque, circus and fun fairs. It is clearly visible in Clown (2009), where model Carmen Kass plays a strange creature, mix of Commedia dell'Arte, of Moulin Rouge's dancer and of prostitute ( the video starts with the words "Dark Annie" which refer to Annie Chapman, a victim of Victorian serial killer Jack the Ripper ). In Joie de Vivre (2010), she pictures model Raquel Zimmerman ( who, really, is of all the best parties ) as a sinistrous Marylin Monroe and as a dark gogo dancer. Everything is dark, especially the not-so-visible-but-latent humour. In her latest videos for Pugh, the models are puppets with broken joints, dancing robots, hula hoop players, actors of Kabuki theatre or even women cut by a digital magician.

Rick Owens

Ruth Hogben's universe has also to do with contemporary ballets, danced on intense electro music ( often made by Lukid ), with the inflatable capes of Gareth Pugh as tutu. The models are moon-walking on the screen, alone or multiplied ( a good way to be sure the dancers will always be synchronized ! ) and offer to the viewer images of a breathtaking beauty. This beauty remains in the recent video for Gareth Pugh 2011's collection, but one cannot but notice that the artist doesn't renew herself a lot. The effects are the same, the movements too. Take a look at those two images, extracted from her 2009 and 2011's movies. Very similar, isn't it ?

Gareth Pugh 2009 and 2011

But considering that Ruth Hogben is still young and that her career is already impressive, I guess that her talent will find many new forms in the future, and even if her last video is nothing new, I am still an admirer of her sense of aesthetism and her phantasmagoria. Few are able to do such gorgeous fashion ( and artistic ! ) videos and to make Gareth Pugh's clothes more desirable and fantastic than they already are.
http://showstudio.com/contributors/27349
All images are Ruth Hogben and SHOWstudio all rights reserved.

Gareth Pugh Pitti 2011 and Clown

IFB's Links a la Mode

2011-01-20T18:51:00.001Z

"I have confidence that spring will come again, Besides which you see I have confidence in me"

Edited by Florrie Clarke of Intrinsically Florrie
Within this week's links I kept noticing a resounding honestly in the heartfelt posts. When we blog or choose an outfit we are putting ourselves out there for all to judge, and it's not surprising that doing the activity can have an affect on our confidence for better or for worse, especially when feedback starts coming in.
There's also been a sense of rebellion in the air: from the emergence of the punk style to controversy over Vogue, and in the week that saw the spectacle which is the Golden Globes rises a questioning of what the red carpet is all about.

Links à la Mode: January 20th

A la Modest Drawing inspiration from Kabukis, Rainbow Brite, Ladytron, and Padmé Amidala while on Tatooine
Antares: Alfa Scorpii Fashion without mercy: do I have to choose between fashion and my beliefs?
By Anika Who gets to label me and my worth? I do! An honest account from this curvy fashionista who fiercely supports all of our rights to label, embrace and love our fashionable selves, what ever our size.
City of Glitter To Cover-up or Not To Cover-up? A post exploring foundation and its role in our self-esteem.
Crimson Rosella Blogging: A Self-confidence booster?
Depict This The challenge of wearing vintage clothing in the real world
Elle Enchanted My take on what bloggers need to consider before accepting a sponsor.
Fashezine Inspired by Jennine Jacob's post on how fashion blogs will evolve in 2011, I thought I'd try my hand at a video.
Fashion Limbo Online Christmas Shopping, the Aftermath - on lost packages, refunds and independent retailers.
Fuyume The demise of the kimono industry.
Fish Monkey's Writing Stuff Why I don't think that red carpets have any relevance to fashion.
Independent Fashion Bloggers: 5 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Yourself
Intrinsically Florrie The fashion show that's made me impatient for summer.
Karma-Style Blog Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj have 'FoF' - Fearlessness of Fashion. Do you?
My Heart Blogged Falling head over flats. My flats collections, and why you don't see me wearing heels.
Scarlet Letter Style Why is the fashion world so critical? I have an idea on how to fix it
The Column of Samantha Tyler Of Punks and their influence on Fashion
The Fashion Pawn The fourth part of The B.O.B Series discusses all "About You:" Tips for your About You Page.
The-Loud Mouth Sometimes, garbage piles up: Fashion blogging isn't just a hobby. For some, it can be an emotional release.
The Taxonomy Of My Wardrobe Three Strikes Vogue - You're Out! Three examples of how the fashion bible is inexcusably out of touch with readers and losing relevance in today's world
The Simply Luxorious Life Why Not . . . Create Your Own Signature Style?

Decoding : Sex and other fashion considerations

2011-01-20T13:54:00.005Z

Raquel Zimmerman in 2009

If we could sum up fashion with only one word, a word that would explain at the same time its existence and its gist, I think that the word body would be satisfying. No flesh, no bones = no clothes. And yet, body is something Fashion is always trying to hide the reality, as clothes hide the skin. It's a scandal each time creators or photographers reveal the body of a female model. But a naked woman in a fashion magazine, what it is ? Sex, art or a joke ? Indeed, how bare skin could sell clothes ? Some stylists have found the antidote to this problem : they added a naked man next to the dressed woman. But still. The sex disturbs. But sex is intimately related to fashion. We choose our style depending on our sex and on the sex we want to seduce. Reductive ? Yes, especially for the heads of marketing. If we didn't have a sex, we could buy more clothes. No more choice between menswear and womenswear, but an infinity of possibilities. And here enters androgyny. The concept exists in the industry for a while, but at the beginning, it was mainly a deliberate transgression from designers and stylists who liked their tea with a bit of provocation. Among them is Jean-Paul Gaultier. Already in 2009, he has stricken our imagination with his A/W 2009 campaign which was showing two different versions of model Raquel Zimmerman. Stunning.

Andrej Pejic and Martin Cohn

But, in June 2010, he struck harder. In the catwalk, a tall and seducive blond is walking, her ciggy carelessly lit in her hand. She looks at the public with arrogance. But this blond beauty, who is showing the designer's latest womenswear collection, is not a woman. It is Andrej Pejic, a 18 years old Aussie boy. We must say that Andrej is working a lot on his androgynous look : long hair, ambiguous clothes and girly pout. He could fool the jury of Miss World for sure. Same with the porcelain doll's face of Martin Cohn, who is now one of the most booked male models and who recently have reached the rank of It boy. Men are stripping, but their bodies are not sexed at all. They met the ancient Greece ideal : effeminate posture, children's innocent faces and invisible genitals. Long-past, the male body seems to be made for womanhood. In ancient theatre, the actors could easily play the part of a girl and in opera, castrato were more celebrated than female singers. We can find more easily men who cross-dress rather than women. But if it is easier for them to slip on our clothes, then, perhaps the female models should start to worry. Male models can parade for both collections, but can female models do the same ?

Tilda Swinton and Lady Gaga

Probably, but it is not certain. Nowadays, models look more like fragile little girls rather than strong little boys. Some already have embraced the boyish trend, such as Agyness Deyn and Freja Beha Erichsen, but most of their female colleagues balk at cutting their long sylph hair. In other professions, some are less cautious. In cinema, actresses have cross-dressed for a long time : Sarah Bernhardt in L'Aiglon, Jeanne Moreau in Jules and Jim, Julie Andrews in Victor Victoria, Barbara Streisand in Yentl, Gwyneth Paltrow in Shakespeare in Love, Hilary Swank for Boys don't cry and more recently, we have to remember the stunning performance of Cate Blanchett as rocker Bob Dylan. If actors cross-dress for comedy ( Some like it Hot, Mrs Doubtfire, Hairspray ), actresses have always drama roles. There is something melancholic in seeing a woman dressed as a man. See the famous pictures of Lady Gaga for Vogue Japan. No smile, but solemnity. The feminists will protest, but it looks like women can't easily be men. To my knowledge, Tilda Swinton is the only one woman who can brag to do campaigns for both womenswear and menswear at Pringle of Scotland. With her unusual look and her boyish style, she can easily be mistaken for a man.

David Bowie, Brian Molko and Miyavi

Then, men still have the advantage here. But for our defense, it is just because they have a leg up. Men started to work on their androgynous look in the 70s. It is something usual in the music industry. We can't do an article about androgyny without mentioning David Bowie. Many other singers have played with their ambiguity, such as Brian Molko, the singer of rock band Placebo. But when it comes to Japan, it is a real institution : Visual Kei, a specific kind of rock, have very strict codes of appearances, and fan girls are worshiping singers and musicians with feminine appearances. The roots of this trend date back to Kabuki theatre. Theatre, Music, Cinema, Fashion : it is a permanent loop and the trend of androgyny is not going to disappear. Ancient Greece's philosopher Plato thought that, at the beginning of the world, there were no male nor female. We were one, and the gods decided to cut us in two distinct sexes in order to have peace. An idea that facinates so much we can't get rid of it, and even, in our modern world, eager of novelties, starts to establish itself as the new norm.

Gisele Bundchen for Balenciaga and Ben Grimes for Grazia Magazine

So, in the future, will we ask ourselves "To be sexed or not to be ?". Science-fiction promised us cold creatures in androgynous jumpsuits. Are we going to sacrify the dresses to the suits forever ? Some brands already started to launch collections wearable by both men and women, such as Acne and The Kooples. In many new campaigns and photoshots, models are masculine. With the increase of women at the head of fashion houses and magazines, is it a sign of power ? Or is erasing sex a way to have more sex ? Bisexuality is staying discreet but some defend it as the It sexuality. I don't think there is an It sexuality, as I think that there is not one sexuality. And not one fashion either. Because the human being is not only one thing. There always will be aestheticism and free will. Two other words that can also perfectly describe fashion ...

Model of Danielle Scutt Womenswear A/W 2010 collection

Third Sex ( 3eme Sexe )

Tribute : Once O'punk a Time

2011-01-17T13:03:00.003Z

Vivienne Westwood

You've asked for more History articles, you will have more. Some would say that punks are not History, but I consider History everything that influences our present society, and it is strongly the case with the punk movement. Now, a punk is basically ( in the mind of most people ) a person who is wearing a dyed mohawk or is clad in black. Time to destroy these popular clichés. Don't try to make me believe that Jared Leto and Taylor Momsen are punks ... Being punk has little to do with mercantile attention seekers. Of course, there is no law and no thruth about being punk, but there are always douchebags to pretend the contrary.
The word punk is a very old one : Shakespeare used it to describe prostitutes, and in 20th century it was mainly used in prisons, some says as a very offensive term. In the late 60s, the word has been placed side by side with rock to describe a different type of garage rock. It was then detached again, by the music magazine "Punk". And everything begun.

David Bowie - Joe Strummer - British TV presenter Bill Grundy - Johnny Rotten - Malcolm McLaren - Smutty of the Rockats - Andy Warhol - Sid Vicious - Vivienne Westwood - background Kings Road with Sex ( seditionaries.com )

Contrary to another popular belief, the Punk movement begun in the United States, in the beginning of the 70s. Artist Andy Warhol was gathering many trendy newyorkers in his Factory, where was born a community of free-thinkers, artists and musicians of a new kind. Among them were Patti Smith, the Velvet Underground, Television, The Ramones, The New York Dolls, Debbie Harry and Blondie, Iggy Pop and The Stooges, all performing at the famous club CBGB. Fashion, at the time, was inspired by the Mods, rockers who dressed with bikers' clothes and wore mullets. Soon, the band The New York Dolls, and his singer Johnny Thunders, developped a different way to dress, with girl clothes worn by men. The show "Pork", created by Andy Warhol, had also an huge impact on the world of entertainment, especially on one special artist : David Bowie. The British singer came back to his country with a brand new style inspired by what he saw in New York. His character of Ziggy Stardust launched the Glam movement, but also influenced many teenagers. But he was not the only one to have been amazed by this new trend, coming from the other side of the Atlantic.
In 1972, a British couple decided to open a shop on Kings Road, to sell clothes inspired by the early punks : Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood. The shop, called "Let it Rock", became a real success and soon evolved in a new concept, called "Sex" in 1974. The same year, in the same shop, McLaren created his own punk band, the famous Sex Pistols. The band, composed of singer Johnny Rotten, guitarist Steve Jones, drummer Paul Cook and bassist Glen Matlock, was not exactly a professional band. Most of them were beginners, and they clearly didn't give a damn about the whole thing, but they soon catched up the eyes of the public. The 1st December 1976, the band and some of his fans appeared on the Today Show, hosted by Bill Grundy. The TV show was broadcasted live and everyone on the set was drunk, including Grundy himself. It was seen by a lot of people around the country and the behaviour of the punks shocked them a lot, especially for their several use of five letter words ... It would be quite banal now, but at the time, it was really outrageous and it seriously launched the career of the Sex Pistols.
The punks were invading UK. The fans soon became rockers too, and most of the main bands of the Music History were created then : The Clash, Siouxsie and the Banshees, The Cure ( which later created the Gothic movement ), Generation X, The Buzzcocks, The Cramps, The Damned, ... and later, Joy Division. London became the center of the punk world, and even the early actors of New York settled in the capital of England. But too much provocation and chaos soon led the punks to decline. Sid Vicious replaced Matlock in the Sex Pistols and he drove the band to its end, with the blessings of McLaren, who was counting on the junkie's provocations for his marketing. Some says McLaren was a genius, but I'd rather think he was an opportunist. Nothing new !
The Sex Pistols went to USA, they clashed. Sid killed his girlfriend Nancy, died of an overdose of heroin and the Punk died of an overdose of trash. Born in the USA, died in the USA, it sounded natural. Broken in many different pieces, the movement evolved : the 80s saw the rise of the gothics, Johnny Rotten helped the expansion of the reggae, Joy Division represented the post-punk hope and open the way to the alternative rock, and The Exploited created the wave of the "crest punks", those rockers with enormous mohawks. "Punk's not dead" was their main slogan, but Punk as it used to be was definitely part of the past.

Gaye Advert - Cherry Vanilla - Siouxsie Sioux - Debbie Juvenile - Nancy Spungen - Debby Harry - Nina Hagen - Sue Catwoman - made by Sam Tyler, background Mirror article on the Sex Pistols

But if Punk had an huge impact on Music, it also had the same effect on lifestyle and fashion. The Punk movement was a liberation for the young people of the world, tired of a restricted life, and inspired by the Hippy movement and French 1968's revolution. The women saw an opportunity to show that they can be something else than just perfect housewives, and so, many of them left their marks on the movement. These icons were mainly from the Bromley Contingent, a group of friends coming from the borough of Bromley in London. Among them were Siouxsie Sioux, but also Jordan, the famous clerck of shop Sex, Debbie Juvenile, Linda Ashby, a dominatrix whose flat in St James became the HQ of the punks, Tracie O'Keefe, Sharon, ... The Pistols followers were mainly art students from St Martin's. They saw in the Punk movement a new way to express their passion, and also to live it up. Drugs and sex were their main interests, sometimes far behind music and fashion. It was the case for unfamous Nancy Spungen, Vicious' girlfriend, who was just a degenerate. But, fortunately, all the punk girls were not that empty, and some of them have had a great impact on modern girls, thanks to their independance and their style.

Bondage Suit by Sex - Sweater by Seditionaries - Top by Vivienne Westwood - Outfit by Let it Rock - Bondage boots by Seditionaries - Shirt by Sex - Shop sign of Sex - Self made badge

Of course, fashion is one important point of the punks, and this is mainly a fashion blog, so I'm going to develop it more. As most of punks were artists, students and generally coming from a modest background, their clothes were often handmade. They launched the "Do It Yourself" movement. The shirts were customized with patches, safety pins, badges, prints and other accessories such as chains and armbands, modeled after the Punk itself, which was described by John Savage as pre-existing youth cultures stuck together with safety pins.
Punks main idea was to provocate the right-thinking society so they stole a lot to the skinheads and the sadomasochists. Indeed, most of the t-shirts bore swastikas, anti-catholic slogans and sexual contents. They were not racist at all, just little idiots who thought they were funny using such outrageous symbols. They didn't care about politics, but they were rebelling against English government. Anarchy was an extreme point of view, so they adopted it and sprinkled some designs of the anarchist "A" on their clothes, as well as pictures of Karl Marx and of the Queen ( see the famous Pistols "God save the Queen" ). Quite an odd mix, but as long as it looked outrageous, it was considered as great.
Bondage was also something important in the punks' attires. Their taste for leather and rubberwear was borrowed to the SM and homosexual communities, which they helped a lot. Bondage was the only thing dark in the punk fashion, which was more colourful than believed. Sid Vicious was the only one at the beginning to wear leather jackets and jeans, as the punks main clothes were surprisingly ... sweaters. It's true ! A look at contemporary pictures will convince you : striped, multicouloured and often destroyed, the sweater is everywhere. The women wore ripped leggings. Tartan, ties, tape and garbage bags were at the programme too ...
Most of the punks' clothes were made by themselves, but Vivienne Westwood soon revealed her talents of designer and she created most of the clothes of her shops "Let it Rock", "Sex" and later "Seditionaries". Other shops were opened on Kings Road but were less famous, and sometimes more considered as tourists' shops. Let's quote Acne and Boys, of stylist Helen Robinson.
No mohawk for the early punks : Sue Catwoman was the only one with a weird hairdo, Linda Ashby was skinhead and Sid has got spiky hairs, but most of the time it was short for men and long for women, sometimes dyed, always dirty. Extreme make-up and body art, even for men, was common, the trends of piercings and tattoos mainly started in the 80s.

Agyness Deyn - "Punk" by Tim Flash - Kate Moss in Isabel Marant - Danielle Scutt AW 2010 - Nana - Dimepiece Bondage t-shirt - Rooney Mara as Lisbeth Salander for W Magazine

And now, what the punk's heritage ? Vivienne Westwood is one of the most famous designers in the Industry. Other designers were inspired by punks : Jean-Paul Gaultier for example, or Danielle Scutt to name a few. T-shirts reminding of those of "Sex" have spread, such as the "Bondage Boy" t-shirt of brand Dimepiece. And the sweaters ! Those of Isabel Marant look like the exact replicas of those of Siouxsie or Johnny Rotten ... Kate Moss, the face of the brand and godmother of sons of Clash member Paul Simonon, one of the most famous punk bands, is a modern punk girl, and when in couple with rocker Pete Doherty, they were said to look a lot like Sid and Nancy. Hopefully, Kate didn't end like her lookalike ... Punks are also often saw in fashion photography and in fictions, such as in the Japanese manga Nana, where the heroine wears Vivienne Westwood clothes and the hero looks like Sid Vicious. The character of Lisbeth Salander, created by author Stieg Larsson has got a punk look too.
Punk came back in trends at the beginning of the 21th century. Before, the only admirers of the movement were people who lived it or some old fashioned teenagers who prefered old rock to hip hop and techno. I was among those kids, and even if my punk years are far behind me, I have to admit that they still influence my sense of fashion and of arts. "Once a punk, always a punk" I guess ... We all belong to the Blank Generation now.

Fashion : Markus Lupfer, in the Road of Success

2011-01-14T12:11:00.001Z

To be honest, I wasn't really a fan of Markus Lupfer's work at the beginning : yes, his sweaters were fun and original, but to the say the least, they were mainly ... well, sweaters : not exactly something feminine and elegant. But when I discovered his Resort and Summer 2011's collections, I was genuinely awed by the evolution. From humour and nonconformism, Markus has transcended his clothes into a real ready to wear level, and he is now playing in the big league.
The German born designer juggles with the codes in those two collections. Lightness seems to be his main idea, with soft material, sometimes transparent, and there is preciosity in the details : pearls, flounces, fringes.

But still, there is harshness in the details, something fiercier than just some white skirts and cute cardigans. There, it is a wild stroke of dark blue paint, here a belt a bit rebellious, also some taunting lips or a girafe which cheeks you, showing that the designer didn't lose his sense of humour. Markus Lupfer also turned a slogan t-shirt into something really posh, almost Parisian : Sinner or Saint, you choose your side, full stop. The use of those religious concepts can be directly linked to his colleague J.W. Anderson's rings Saint and Assassin. But the only thing that could kill you in Lupfer's world is desire. Indeed, his collections are extreamely desirable. Of course, with those rainy, windy and cold days, you are in trance each time you are seeing summer clothes, but there is something more here.

Markus Lupfer has succeeded in creating the perfect basics such as the above dresses. The colours too are perfectly chosen. The dark blue first, in light strokes it is sensual and acute, in total look it is strong and elegant, a perfect answer to black. I have a personal crush for the fourth sweater dress in the first picture : it is at the same time casual and very attractive. The old-fashioned prints reminds of Alexander McQueen's recents collections, without the grandmother's tapestry effect.
Nude is here too, spiced up with interesting textures and gold. Here again, the use of the classic leopard print is regenerated into something new and fresh. The skirt in the girafe's outfit is gorgeous with its small pompoms.
Also, the first Men's collection of Markus has to be emphasized : it is punkish and promising. It is certain : Markus Lupfer is one of the great vintages of year 2011. I think it would be sharp to put him in your shopping list ...

http://www.markuslupfer.com/
http://www.matchesfashion.com/
http://www.net-a-porter.com/

Trend : This is What I Call Summer

2011-01-13T14:04:00.003Z

A priori, the fashionistas who follow this blog may not have a faint idea of who John Simm, Philip Glenister and Marc Warren are. You usually don't find them in the pages of fashion magazines. They were recently featured on GQ mag, so perhaps your boyfriend or brother would know them better. The last time those three brilliant English actors were in the same fiction, it was State of Play by Paul Abbott, and it was pure genius. So I was pretty thrilled when I've learned that they will re-enlist for a new Sky fiction, which was also a dark humor thriller. Everyting I was waiting for. But, you would ask 'how is that related to fashion ?' And then, I will answer : because the guy who directed the promos already made that before :

"Model Eaten By Shark" David LaChapelle

Yes, the provocative, twisted, sexy, most famous fashion photographer David LaChapelle. Yes, the one who usually shot Lady Gaga, Naomi Campbell, Alexander McQueen and Uma Thurman. I don't know who got this brilliant idea at Sky, but kuddos. The result is a serie of short videos in the classic plastic mood of the master, with a sexy model, a cut foot, Tony Blair, guns and loads of humour noir. Aesthetic and fun, everything you're expecting from LaChapelle and the perfect antidote to the boring campaign of Louis Vuitton Resort 2011. I like my fashion better with a twist of madness ...
This also heralds a great success for Mad Dogs, the Sky serie, a sort of Very Bad Things with an English flavour ... A comedy that will certainly raise the temperature of the Spring ( in UK first and hopefully in Europe and USA after ).

Spotlight : The many arts of Jordan Askill

2011-01-11T10:47:00.006Z

Jordan Askill is not just a sculptor. He's not just a brother. He's not just a jewellery designer either. Because Jordan Askill deserves more than one label. Even his name on the new NEWGEN's list is not enough to describe the huge talent which this Aussie artist possesses.
After earning his stripes in his hometown of Sydney, working at Ksubi and on many other projects such as costumes for a dance company, the third Askill brother flew to Paris, which is unfortunately a passage obligé for the young designers.

Boy

There, Jordan Askill worked 3 years for the prestigious Dior Hommes. But soon, the young artist decided to play by his own rules. At the same time sculptor and designer, Jordan created a singular universe where you can meet the gods of your childhood, plastic knights and horses, head of boy dolls, all floating in a different weightlessness. His creations share a unique poetry, a mix of melancholy and passion. Static or in a latent movement, the sculptures and the jewels remind us our former toys, which we've imagined they could move when we weren't looking.

Costume for Sydney-based dance company "Are we that we are"

This idea of motion is also developped by the artist with his brothers, directors Daniel and Lorin, in short films, video installations, commercials and more. But there is no risk that Jordan would spread himself too thin. He is heading toward a precise goal, motivated by a special energy. The artist perfectly masters the techniques of the past and the present, and seems determined to used them for the art of the future.

If you wish to encourage this newcomer in the world of fashion, you can find some pieces on the website of French retailer Colette.fr. I guess that with an helping hand of NEWGEN, we will hear more about Jordan Askill in the future : why not a desirable collection at Topshop ?

http://www.askillprojects.com/jordanaskill.html

This year I have decided to back my articles with mood songs. Horses of Patti Smith looked like an obvious choice for this one, perhaps not only because of the title but also the odd energy.

Fashion : Reading the Stars with Christopher Kane

2011-01-06T10:21:00.093Z

The beginning of a year is always the time to talk about astrology and horoscopes.

Raise your hand if you like to read those pages in the magazines. I do, I'm not ashamed of it. But I don't believe in it at all. One example : ever since they predict that I will get a job, I think I should be CEO by now ... I guess my aunt would tell me that it's because the aliens are interfering with the waves. Yes, I have that type of aunt, which may explain the fact I am such a sceptic.
I can't get this 2012's thing either. So, apparently, we are all going to die next year because the Mayas told so. Okay. Knowing that most of these guys thought that earth was flat, I guess we can consider them as highly reliable ...

I don't know what designer Christopher Kane think about all this ( maybe we should ask him, after all his opinion is worth thousand of Mayas, as far as I know ), but what is certain is that his Resort 2011 collection is genuinely stellar. Along allowing you to show off at your Astronomy Club or to consider a career of guru, the whole collection is so adorable you can wear it on many occasions, casual or party. Proof is Carey Mulligan wore one of the dresses at a premiere : this gal has got flair for sure, but I can't help thinking that a Star wearing stars is a bit redundant ...

My immediate thought when first contemplating Kane's nebulae prints was for Nut, the Egyptian mythology's goddess, not the dried fruit ( yes I have that kind of thought, that's why I was called an alien in high-school; don't tell that to my aunt ). Nut is the goddess of the sky, and is often pictured as a women covered with a night sky. The Egyptians didn't predict the end of the world for next year so, for me, they are much cooler. It's not necessary to be an ancient goddess to wear the fascinating silk clothes of Christopher Kane, but you will definitely feel superior. It's not neccessary to add more, the clothes are perfect.

picture net-a-porter.com

Unfortunately, even if I just had a substantial income ( which my horoscope forgot to mention ), my chance to buy a piece of that collection is pretty much as feasible as a trip to the moon. Here's the dilemma : if we are all going to die next year, we'd better enjoy 2011 and do everything we want, including a HUGE shopping ! But if it happens that we are still here in January 1st of 2013, it is our bank account which would have a HUGE problem ... I think that I've just found the "IT subject of conversation" of the year : "What are you going to wear for Apocalypse ?" I guess that answering Christopher Kane is definitely appropriate.

Oh, and don't forget to make a wish, a shooting star ( Etoile filante, the title of that song of German electro music band Neo Filigrante ) is passing :

Be prepared ...

2011-01-04T12:02:00.000Z

DimePiece inspired my new header

Welcome back ! Year 2011 is starting very well for me, and I hope for you too ... As you can see, the blog has got a brand new look, edgier and darker. That goes with my dark sense of humour : you've asked for it in my poll, then you will be delighted ... I was also very happy to see that you asked for more Decoding and History. I was a bit afraid that the intellectual twist of this blog was putting readers off, but it looks like there still are persons who know and like to read out there ... And that's good news ! Plus, as you can see the new design allow a better readability.

I hope that in 2011 I will be able to interest you as much ( and perhaps more ! ) than in 2010. The casual stuff ( see the different themes on the side bar ) will stay, but I hope to add more exciting content, and also hope to see an increasing participation in my comments ...

So, are you ready ???

Winter Hiatus

2010-12-15T15:35:00.002Z

I have something special to celebrate and share with you today. This is my 100th message on this blog. Wow ! I didn't expect that when I have started it back in March ... It has been a very intense year, posting nearly one article per day. I've tried to give you the best, always ... Hope you liked it.

So now, I have decided to do a little break for the holidays. I will imitate the TV series and put The Column into a Winter Hiatus. But that doesn't mean that it will be a vacation for me ... Oh no ! It's just that I will work on many other projects ( my other blog, Midnight Blue Hawk will have a makeover, I also plan several collaborations with websites and magazines , plus some personal writing projects ). I will keep you updated for sure ! I will also prepare The Column for its come-back in 2011 ... Faithful readers, I promise you the best for January !

No time for rest ! But of course, I will enjoy the Holidays ...

I wish you a great, warm, delicious Christmas and a New Year 2011 full of brand new discoveries ...

For Chistmas, I would love some feedback ... ( you can choose until 3 different answers )

Trend : 2010 Report

2010-12-14T14:28:00.004Z

Yes, 2010 is nearly over. Almost unbelievable as this year has been one of the most intense of the first decade of the 21st century. We can't talk of 2010 without mentioning the tragic disappearance of designer Lee Alexander McQueen. His last collection shined like a gift from heaven. It was good to see that Sarah Burton succeeded to the genius, and also that women were finally taking the lead : women designers ( Phoebe Philo for Céline, Hannah MacGibbon for Chloé, Isabel Marant, ... ) and diversity of models ( young, old, curvy, slim, black, white, asian, transsexual, redhead, ... ). But 2010, it is also a volcano which forced us to realize the vacuity of our transport frenzy, a cursed year for couples ( the divorce of Eva Longoria, and now the break up of Zanessa ! ), and the Crisis with a big C, the new cruel goddess who is running our lives. In short, this is a year in full color ... Quick review of 2010's Fashion.

2010's collections we loved

If creativity is not the strong point of the Cinema Industry, at least, 2010 was greatly inspiring for fashion designers. McQueen and Miu Miu were the great names. Everyone fell in love with the shiny, girly and playful designs of Mucia Prada. Chanel, of course, was perfect as usual. We can also quote Marchesa, Sportmax and Alexis Mabille, the one to follow. In picture, the deliciously elegant collections of Oscar De La Renta, Basil Soda, Balmain which establishes itself as one of the leaders of the Industry with its brilliant and addictive designs, Etro, with its ethnic luxury, Gareth Pugh which is now considered as a great name, Indian-born Naeem Khan and of course, Alexander McQueen.

2010's collections we hated

You can be a great genius of fashion and deceive your admirers. Many misleaded in the Mad Men's trend and created real monsters. Others take the expression "Less is more" to the letter and created tasteless clothes. There was also the ones who didn't pull their punches in the boyfriend's trend ... They cannot be right all the time, but we have to collar them before they repeat the same mistake. In picture, Cacharel which was really painful to watch this year, Roberto Cavalli who decided to do the opposite of "Less is more" and stunned us with an horrific collection, I don't even mention the ridicule of Louis Vuitton ( who fortunately redeemed himself with his SS 2011 collection ), Chloé and its menswear , Prada and its damage to the modern women, Stella McCartney and the abominable Topshop Unique and its wild child escaped from a SM adaptation of Peter Pan. Ouch, let's forget those things.

2010's best fashion photographies

A short gallery is worth a thousand words, so admire :

David Benoliel

Sølve Sundsbø for Numero

Rafael Stahelin for Korean Vogue

Mert&Marcus for Vogue Paris

Julia Pogodina for Zink Magazine

2010's worst fashion photographies

I still wonder what they find to Terry Richardson. It is gross, of miserable quality and the guy looks like a freak. As for Meisel's editorial for Vogue Italia, yuk, yuk and yuk !

Terry Richardson for Vogue Paris - Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia

2010's best promising designers

Oh great ! New names ! Tons of them ! I already told you about Pedro Lourenço, Alexandre Vauthier, Lilly Marthe Ebener and Li-lee ? But this year, they were not the only to make the buzz. In picture, you can also admire a military outfit from Anthony Vacarello, one from the highly desirable collection of J.W. Anderson ( who also does amazing jewellery ), a gorgeous dress of Talbot Runhof and another one from Louise Goldin, with a stunning photography. Can't wait to see them in the next years !

2010's trends to worship

On the trends' side, 2010 was also rich in good surprise. In beauty, we were finally liberated from the painful sessions at the beautician thanks to the trend of the natural eyebrows. We love it ! At last, a face with personality ! We also love grey nail varnish, great on the long hands. In our wardrobe, we were happy to find the big, warm, gorgeous sweaters back. Thank you D&G ! We also have a crush for turbans ( here made with a Chloé scarf ), bowler hats and leather briefcase, very nerdy-chic ( pictured : Lancaster, but you can also find a great piece by DKNY at net-à-porter ).

2010's trends to poke fun at

Every year, it is the same song : unwearable clothes, ridiculous hairdos and beauty tips ... Sometimes, we wonder if the magazines aren't taking us for morons ... Our worst nightmares seem to have been realized in 2010 : the new icon of the teenagers, Kristen Stewart, channelled her inner Joan Jett for a movie ? And bang, the mullet comes back. Seriously, it is the worst thing in the history of hair fashion and I would never have believed it could come back. But it did. Let's hope it would soon disappear. For our own sake.
After Joan Jett, Joan Harris wreaks havoc. Please, forget the years 50s or 60s, or anything which remind us that once women were only good and smily housewifes ... You've easily recognized Louis Vuitton and Prada in the picture. Another trend that we wish will be a temporary fad : flannelette. A dress for Rihanna, sweaters for Dries Van Noten, pants for Isabel Marant. And grey. For me, it is too associated with sweating ...

2010's faces we liked

They made the year, we love them. Long live Anna Dello Russo and her delicious spark of madness.
This year, the brunettes have taken the lead : Anne Hathaway is definitely the new icon, and this photoshot channeling Audrey Hepburn for Vogue is A-M-A-Z-I-N-G so does her pixie crop ( she is now back to longer hair ). Other brunettes are Charlotte Kemp Muhl, Elisa Sednaoui ( in a shot of Karl Lagerfeld for the Pirelli Calendar ), the misunderstood Isabel Lucas and the adorable and oh-so-fashionable Leighton Meester ( who has got shoes to die for in this shot, see them here : http://justjared.buzznet.com/photo-gallery/2498253/leighton-meester-herbal-madrid-02/ ). Michelle Williams represents the blondes here, and for the redheads, I think that we had our dose this year ( see my article on Christina Hendricks ). As for the men, I have selected the adorkable James Franco and Kanye ... Yes, Kanye. Love him, hate him or totally indifferent, you have to admit that he has guts in his madness.

2010's faces we liked ( on the catwalks and magazines )

This year was the reign of Constance Jablonski, Jessica Stam, Lara Stone and Ginta Lapina ( what a name ! ) but my selection includes less known names. Eniko Mihalik is one of those rising stars ( gorgeous in red ), along with Jenny Sweeney, beauty Joan Smalls, transsexual Givenchy star Lea T, Liu Wen ( you already know her if you have read my article on her ), the next big thing Tao Okamoto, the Nordic angels Sigrid Agren and Svala Lind and, finally, the doll Charlotte Benson. No male models, as Baptiste Giabiconi is having ( stealing ) the top billing thanks to his special relationship with Karl Lagerfeld.

2010's faces we are tired to see

This list will definitely be longer. Of course, Justin Bieber tops it. Please, someone, kidnap that brat and keep him very far from a mic, Twitter and any media ... Same request for Mr and Mrs Brand ( no, they are not as sexy as Mr and Mrs Smith ) : I used to like Russell, now he and his Indian-themed wedding with the queen of attention-whores Katy is really getting on my nerves. If I see her idiotic smile again on Ellen, I think I am going to kill someone. And what happened to Marion Cotillard ? She used to be so sweet, so natural ... Now that she is the face of Dior bags and a huge Hollywood movie star, her style is really monstruous ... And pregnancy doesn't excuse everything, dear. I know she has got tons of fans who think that it is great that she is different, but I still can't stand the face of model Lindsey Wixson. It reminds me creepy dolls. Sorry ! Talking of creepy things, I think that 2011 must be the year of the retirement for Madonna. Being that decrepit and hang out with sexy clothes and much younger Adonis is genuinely indecent.
Yes, I've put Sarah Palin in my list : even if I am not American, I was there during her campaign in 2008 and she scared me. Thinking that she is planning a come-back is totally frightening. A special mention for Taylor Momsen and her proud look inspired by the cheap prostitute of Manilla, for Ke$ha who took the eyebrows' trend too seriously, for Nicki Minaj, Robert Pattinson, Jada Pinkett Smith and her terrifying daughter Willow. Put them all in a bus and take them to Alaska so we don't have to endure them in 2011. That is a serious request, really.

2010's best nervous giggles

Of course, Willow Smith is there. Especially for this outfit. She told the world it has been made by her personal stylist Brea Stinson aka Bstar. Ooops. In fact it was stealed to designer Mildred Von Hildegard. Humiliation for the Smiths, good advertising for the steampunk designer : 0-1.
I think the whole look of Nicki Minaj deserves an award for Best Nervous Giggles of 2010. Seriously, everything this gal wore is ridiculous and attention-seeking.
But the queen of queens is unquestionably Lady Gaga. Her style is amazing, audacious and unique. But sometimes, too much of a good thing leads you to something really disturbing. I cherish the memory of the face of Cher when she had to carry Gaga's meat purse during the VMA ... Priceless. It is better to laugh than to puke actually.

We started with sorrow, we end with humour. That's all a year is, and 2010 was not different.

Spotlight : Ryan Gosling, The Actor You Love To Hate

2010-12-13T11:01:00.004Z

New York Magazine

It is quite impossible these days to avoid Ryan Gosling, insomuch I am starting to wonder if the scenarists of the Village of the Damned didn't have him as a direct source of inspiration. In one year, he succeeded in reaching the rare and exclusive rank of "IT boy" ( an IT boy is the same thing as an IT bag, except that there is no logo in it, at least until now ), awarded by all the press, masculine and feminine. Even more by the feminine. Now that George is busy buying Nespresso coffee pods ( sorry for the American out there, this is a European-only reference ) and Elisabetta Canalis, and that Brad is becoming a boring old daddy, Ryan Gosling intends to become the new sex symbol of Hollywood. He worked very hard for that, and I am sure he won't allow nobody to get in his way. A tad scary ? Oh yeah.

W Magazine with Michelle Williams

Indeed, I can't help watching Ryan Gosling smiling at a movie premiere and wondering where the soul of Ted Bundy went. I sincerely pity his co-star Michelle Williams who is enduring the promotion of their Oscars-bound flick Blue Valentine : he really looks at her in the same way Lennie looked at Curley's wife in Steinbeck's Of Mice And Men ... We could almost see fear on her face through her forced smile. Ryan seems to have the talent of putting his female partners in an awkward situation. Recently, his former 'All Good Things' co-star Kirsten Dunst described him as "dark and weird and manipulative". Add an intense relationship with his mother Donna and you will have the perfect image of a psychopath. But then, how did he manage to become such a superstar ?

Dead Man Bones

At the beginning, it wasn't evident that Ryan Gosling would become what he is now. A former MMC star outshined by Britney, Justin and Christina, Ryan started his career with a bunch of rubbishy roles such as the ridiculous Hercules. I perfectly remember him as the irritating pest of Breaker High in 1997, and still would slap him. But them, a spectacular change of career. No slapping anymore, he is mind-blowing in The Believer of Henry Bean, a very tense independant tale about a jewish neo-nazi, and also in wonderful Stay of Marc Forster.
Murder by Numbers was a piece of junk, but his relationship with Sandra Bullock brought him attention. Too bad for him, at the time the IT boys weren't existing and Sandra was not Hollywood's heroine yet. But the badass didn't want to give up his goal. Genuine swot, he collected tough roles in independant movies and finally caught the eyes of the producers. He was even offered a role in Fracture, opposite to Anthony Hopkins. And now he plays with all the rising stars of Hollywood : Christina Hendricks, Carey Mulligan ...
And yet, with his leather perfecto and his t-shirts with holes, he was more destined for painting contemporary art and killers' roles in David Cronemberg's movies. Alas, no, he has prefered to inflict us his irritating smile in romantic flicks ...

Natalie Portman

Incidentally, romanticism is not his strong point. Ryan is totally obsessed by Natalie Portman for ages. When she broke up with Devandra Banhart, he flooded her cell phone with some crazy advances. But, wisely, Natalie ignored Ted, sorry Ryan, in spite of his equally talent in terms of mad music ... Dead Man Bones was obviously too intense for her. So, Gosling was forced to make do with less intellectual actresses. The manipulator has a good nose for rising talents, and as soon as a blonde is getting some success, you'd be sure he will pounce on her. Rachel McAdams seems to have bailed herself out, but now it is the turn of Gossip Girl's star Blake Lively. Wish her luck. But it could have been worst : he had got closer of Hayden Panetierre ... That would have been apocalypse, for sure !

Interview Magazine

Sure, I agree that Gosling is a magnificent actor, but there is something about him that makes me want to cry wolf. Maybe it is his rap moment at the last AMFAR's party, or perhaps his stupid idea of gaining weight to embody the character of the father in Lovely Bones, but I can't help thinking this guy is not clear. Please, don't give him an Oscar, or I think his arrogance will become so big it will create traffic jams in Los Angeles.
Instead, I suggest that we cast him as a vampire ( a movie on Anne Rice's Lestat ), a serial killer ( a remake of Primal Fear ) or a werewolf ( oh really Guillermo Del Toro, you totally missed something ). Because we love to hate Ryan Gosling. Because he is "adorable". And dark and weird and manipulative. God, Kirsten, you're such a genius. This quote should be taught to school children.

Decoding : The Complex of the blogger

2010-12-10T13:41:00.002Z

Already, 2010 is designated as the year of the fashion blogs, the one which won them the supreme recognition. Recently, Anna Dello Russo has repeated her support to the blogging community, praising the fresh air it was bringing to the industry. This new media has certainly filled with enthusiasm many great actors of the world of fashion, and also many anonymous people.

But the attacks are starting to burst forth.

In a recent issue of a renowned fashion magazine, a column is indignant about the financial success of some famous bloggers. The journalist quotes some of our colleagues who have created a bag for a famous label, who are working for brands or influential fashion editors. Of course, there is some truth in this article : it is a pity that bloggers would lose their integrity for profit and ambition. The announcement of Bryan Boy about his six-figure income is certainly irritating, but not only for professional journalists. All the bloggers are not famous and rich.

I think that those kind of attacks come close to bad faith, to jealousy. Are the bloggers traitors ? Sold out ?
Isn't it an hypocritical accusation from a profession which receive tons of benefits, including free samples and special discounts on clothes ? So, yes, Tavi Gevinson, for example, receives samples from designers and many blogs are posting sponsored articles, but they are just imitating their elders : sponsors are the main profit of magazines ! Everyone has to survive. According to some journalists, blogging would be okay if without earnings. But how are we supposed to live ? Blogging is mainly a job for most of us, and sometimes because of a lack of choice : we are doing it because we are not journalists yet ...
According to a poll I have seen on website Independant Fashion Bloggers, more than 80% of the polled declare blogging for a professional goal. No pleasure invoked when you worry about your future.

Now, this is true that blogging is losing speed. Is it the fault of almighty figures such as Bryan Boy, Garance Doré or Tavi Gevinson ? Or maybe are there too many blogs out there ... Indeed, each day, thousands of new accounts are created. Thousands of concepts, but always the same goal : to gain visibility as quickly as they can. But it's hard when there are too many fishes in the sea. Blogging is now as intimate as Twitter and most of the articles seems to get lost in the deafening hubbub of Internet. And what about bloggers' community, mutual aid ? The assessment is depressing. Independant Fashion Blogger has even launched a "comments challenge" to encourage contact and compliments between its members. The website even speaks of blogger's burnout.

It is a fact that blogging is not an easy work. Journalists have at least a team to rely on, and even if they don't receive feedback, they have the satisfaction to see their publication sold.
The blogger is like a novelist, alone in front of the computer, wondering if his work is good and why nobody is commenting his last article. It is an angst I am sure you know.
Sometimes, the blogger even visits other blogs and almost cries to discover some articles which seem to have been written by a six years old but have reached the 40 comments. The blogger is not extroverted, he hasn't got thousands of friends on Facebook and he has a lot of hang-ups. So, when he has the possibility to gain money and love, he goes for it. It is human.

Personally, I have chosed not to put ads on my blog, first because I find them annoying for a reader, but mainly because of my experience on a writers' website where ads have brought me 22 cents so far ... This kind of thing only works if you are Bryan WonderBoy, albeit thousands of articles told you the contrary. There are no magic words for success, just luck, as in the real world.
Unfortunately, there are some people who have nothing to do in blogging and who are literally polluting the blogosphere ( each of us can easily quote one or two without nastiness : it is just a fact that some people were not meant for blogging ) but this is mainly the fault of the magazines, which have given an excessive publicity to the process. So, thanks to them, we have too much competition, no more fraternity and besides, they are accusing us of being self-interested ! Oh well. Blogging looks like more and more to a curse and less to a blessing ...

I have been asked by young bloggers what I could advise them to do to have success. I really can't answer, I don't even consider my own experience as a success. Yes, I have more than 200 readers per day and I have been spotted by a magazine, but when I read articles on making business plans for a blog, I have quite a nervous laugh. That's silly. Until now, The Column brought me £0,00 and no job offer. But we have to stop thinking about profit : the pleasure it gives me is priceless ...

So I think that bragging about earning £50k per year, when milliards of people are unemployed and surviving, is totally indecent. And I also think that blogging is not designed to perish yet, whether the journalists like it or not. So, if I would have to give you a piece of advice, I would told you to blog for pleasure, not for profit. We have to stop being so obsessive about money. We are lured with luxury, especially in fashion blogging, but don't dream : it will never make you happy nor complete, but constantly unsatisfied.

If writing is becoming too obsessive, too mechanical, stand back and take the time to have some fresh air. Do it only as Susie Lau of Style Bubble does it, because you want to share. If it brings you money, great, if it is not, don't get mad and embittered, maybe success is waiting for you elsewhere. And, most importantly : stop trying to emulate the blogging superstars. Stay yourself and bring what journalists can't.

Genuineness.

Sources :
http://heartifb.com/
http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/archive/2010/12/09/bryan-boy-is-considerably-richer-than-you.htm
http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2010/12/susie_bubble_doesnt_blog_for_t.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+nymag%2Ffashion+%28The+Cut+-+nymag.com%27s+Fashion+Blog+-+New+York+Magazine%29&utm_content=Google+Reader

Trend : Sci Fi bitches

2010-12-08T15:32:00.002Z

Beau Garrett in Tron : Legacy

It is the geek moment of the year : Tron Legacy, the long-awaited sequel-tribute of classic sci fi flick Tron is finally about to be released and the previews abound. Last in date, a video featuring the music of famous electronic band Daft Punk : if you like robot music, you will be delighted. But if, like me, you find it boring, it is time to focus on a funnier aspect of the event, the celebration of sci fi bitches.

Gareth Pugh

When I say "bitches", of course I think about Gaga and her "out of the world"'s outfits. Last year, she was surrealistic, avant-gardist, very year 3000. But now, at the end of 2010, Gaga is just an ancestor of the genre. Everyone in the music industry copied the idea, from Fergie to Kanye, and singers with classic ( boring ) style have reached a brand new celebrity thanks to their radical makeover. Want a proof ? See some before/after pictures of Nicki Minaj. How do you spell "opportunism" ?

Gloria Coelho Pedro Lourenço

But, very far from the concert hall, the sci fi bitches have developped as a whole category of women in the tiny and secret world of the geek nation. There, they don't worship Angelina Jolie. Scarlett Johansson only got their heart because she has played in Iron Man. No, their icons are called "Number 6" ( what a feminist name ... ) or Anna, a frosty beauty who hides her scales under a satin skin. Welcome to the reign of the snake women !

Amy Thompson

Those queens of ice are now investing the fashion magazines, symbols of a liberated woman, who have reached a job with responsability and who doesn't need a man anymore. This woman's best accessory ? A naked ( younger ) man. Better than any IT bag, and a great social revenge. For this woman, out of the question to go back into the past to fill up her walk-in closet ( or her second flat, so does Anna Dello Russo ). Her clothes are definitely futuristic.

Ara-jo

To satisfy their desires, a range of young artists, Gareth Pugh in the lead, but also some grands noms who dare to take the risk of some innovative designs ( the sophisticated french elegance of Hervé Leger turned into an army of the future this year ). The singular shapes are now gaining admittance in the ready to wear collections and in the streets, where you can see more and more latex, metallic fabrics and outfits which were usually more common in Star Strek.

Mildred Von Hildegard

The housewifes of Prada and Vuitton against the cold warriors of the new generation : choose your side ! Even if it means posing as an alien, I will choose neither because I find both very rigid. Between Bree Van De Kamp and Amber Rose, I think that we can create something a bit more human, feminine and strong at the same time. But I admit that aesthetically, I prefer to see the work of photographer Paco Peregrin and that I would love to possess the clothes of Pugh's last collection.

photography of Paco Peregrin

But am I not going to attempt the full look of the sci fi bitch : I would be too afraid to look like a Visitor or a Trekkie ( not that being a Trekkie is something negative, my mind is as large as space, but it is not my cup of tea ). Okay, Laura Vandervoot gets all the guys, but life in plastic ( or in lizard skin ... ) is not that fantastic, as we are still living in the present. Get me some spaceship and I could change my mind.

Morena Baccarin in V

Shopping : Steampunk Jewellery

2010-12-07T08:47:00.002Z

Oscar Crow on Etsy $38,00

The word may be unfamiliar to you. Originally, steampunk designates a sub-genre of literature devote to Victorian-settled science-fiction and fantastic stories. But the genre has grown up thanks to thousands of amateurs, and is now widely represented in the world of what we can call "fringe fashion", as "fringe sciences" exist. Recently, a great name of steampunk fashion has raised in the mainstream conversation : designer Mildred Von Hildegard, who was dispossessed of one of her creations by Willow Smith. But, today, we are going to focus on steampunk jewellery, or more generally fantasy jewels.

Les bijoux de Sophie 175,00 euros - Pamela Love $575,00 - Glazed Black Cherry on Etsy $22,99

The vanitas are of course a great part of it, as death was a very current pattern in Victorian era, and is still the main character of many steampunk novels. The skulls dehumanize themselves : they are winged for designer Sophie, animals for Pamela Love, and become elegant ladies of cameo. This is just a glimpse on the trendy Danse Macabre you can find in the world of jewellery.

Somk price on demand

Impossible to talk of steampunk without quoting Howard Philip Lovecraft. The writer's monsters carry on inspiring nowadays artists and you can find several octopus as rings, pendants, necklaces and brooches. But I have crushed on a designer of Deviantart ( http://somk.deviantart.com/ ) who recreated the great Cthulhu himself and the scary shoggoths. The pieces are awesome, very well detailed and mysterious. A must-have of arty jewels with a meaning.

Glazed Black Cherry on Etsy $29,99 - Maria Francesca Pepe £515 - Tina Tarnoff on Etsy $50,00

Werewolves, vampires, witches, all the classic Victorian creatures can also be easily found on gold mine website Etsy, with delicate prices and sometimes free shipping for our American friends. There is even a section devoted to steampunk, Victorian and gothic jewels. For other edgy accessories, you can always go to Young British Designers and Bona Drag, but everything will be more expensive.
Personally, here are my favourites ... Christmas gifts, somebody ???

Pia £30,00 - J.W. Anderson £54,00 - Steamdesign $59,95

http://www.bonadrag.com/
http://www.etsy.com/
http://www.youngbritishdesigners.com/
http://www.tekeli-li.com/

Trend : Plaid Guilty

2010-12-03T10:19:00.002Z

Campaign for M.A.C. Cosmetics

After Russia, Africa and Brazil, it is time to turn ourselves toward the north of Great Britain. Scotland is suddenly becoming very hype, very far from the clichés of the bearded men in skirt who lift trunks and eat haggis and whisky. We have to credit this spectacular change to the iconic brand Pringle of Scotland and its luminous muse, Tilda Swinton. But the success of the tartan pattern was a very long way. Long time relegated to the school uniforms, the gross lolita's imagery, the punks and the lumberjacks, the plaid started to become more fashionable thanks to the Olsen twins. Afterwards, they were copied many times by starletts such as Lindsay Lohan, and the two Taylors, Swift and Momsen.

1. Eugenia Kim Headband 2. J.Crew shirt 3. Versus 4. Sam Page in Moods of Norway 5. Speck for Iphone

But the casual trend of the plaid shirt ( or the punkier plaid pant worn by Kate Moss ) ended in contaminating the world of luxury and of Haute Couture. It was quite usual in the collections Anglomania and McQ, but soon, it appears in more mainstream lines such as Versus and even Prada, which transformed it into something rough and a bit old granny-esque. Now, plaid is a safe bet for a fashionista, and since Kate Middleton is the new heroin of Great Britain, numerous are the magazines that went into ecstasy over her plaid miniskirt.

1. Topshop bag 2. Tibi dress 3. Rag & Bone 4. Kate Middleton 5. Etoile Isabel Marant shirt

Now, plaid is almost associated with glamour, and we can see thousands of top-models off-duty, wearing it in outfits worthy of the pages of Vogue Magazine, even if they still recall the ones of the infamous Dukes of Hazzard. Fashion is a very peculiar think ! But the shirt aside, tartan is a very serious thing if associated with accessories such as Comme des Garçons clutches, Speck Iphone pads or Burberry's scarves and coats. Used as a detail, it competes with fur this winter and still has its best days ahead.

1. Prada 2. Markus Lupfer top 3. Magdalena Frackowiak 4. Malcolm McLaren 5. Dr. Martens boots

For evidence, the new campaign of Canadian brand of make-up M.A.C. which honours Scotland with a range of dignified and exquisite make-up cases to die for. Also, a special crush for the Fall collection of Rag & Bone.
With its attractive colours and designs, the traditional material of the Scottish families represents a genuine economical manna for the designers and the brands. Adaptable to every look and every budget, it is the happiness of all the fashionistas, mainstream or indie ones. At least a product that makes everyone come to an agreement, what a pleasure !

M.A.C. Cosmetics "Tartan Tale"

Pictures maccosmetics.com, style.com, net-a-porter.com, boutiques.com, JustJared.com.

Decoding : When Fashion meets Contemporary Architecture, the Lourenço family

2010-12-02T12:28:00.000Z

Pedro Lourenço's Jacket

The first collection presented at the last Fashion Week of Paris has been quite a revelation for many fashion critics. Indeed, they were first skeptic, they thought they were going to see another teenage designer. But Pedro Lourenço, 19 years old only, forced them to change their mind in just one show. It was not a complete challenge : the young Brazilian designer is definitely not a novice. His Parisian show was already his tenth one, as he has presented his very first collection at the age of 13. That sounds young, but not for the son of Reinaldo Lourenço and Gloria Coelho, two of the most famous designers of Sao Paulo. As you might have guessed, fashion is a family business for the Lourenços.

The Wyly Theatre of Dallas by Rem Koolhaas and Joshua Prince-Ramus

Pedro is a very serious boy, talking with ease of both the commercial and the artistic aspects of his work. Down to earth, he favours quality to an unbridled creativity, but he is aware that his clienthood is attracted by his most futuristic pieces. So, for Paris, he has developped a very matured line, constituted of architectural and military strict dresses, structured with black leather lined with neoprene and geometrical effects which have been described as venetian-blinds. But the secret of the neofuturistic appearance of his work resides in his main influence : in fact, he eagerly quotes Oscar Niemeyer, his compatriot, who is a worldwide famous architect, considered as a pioneer. I can't help but also see the grooves of Dallas' Wyly Theatre.This influence of contemporary architecture is very vibrant in Lourenço's work, both conscient and unconscient, and it can easily be explained by his heritage.

Reinaldo Lourenço - Shigeru Ban

A quick look at his parents' work is enlightening. Reinaldo Lourenço, his father, seems to be a master of architecture, with some woven dresses which directly connect him with the genius of lightness, the Japanese Shigeru Ban. In both men's work, the attention of the details reveals a will of space and of agility. Reinaldo's woman is fleeing the fetters and is yearning for appeasement. His clothes looks as organic as the material used by the Zen architect. We could also find the troubling sensuality of the Pompidou Center of Metz, in the east of France ( designed by the Tokyo's master in collaboration with French architect Jean de Gastines ) into some dresses of the son, the fitted uniforms imitating the curves of the roof structure of light wood.

Gloria Coelho - Zaha Hadid in Beijing

On the side of the mother, Gloria Coelho, the choice goes on metal structures and a more futuristic relief, which is not without reminding the last collection of British Gareth Pugh, another architectural designer. Perhaps it is already the hand of Pedro, who has handled his mother's line "Carlota Joakina" for years, but I recognize the Walt Disney Concert Hall of Los Angeles in those stratums of brushed metal. They are also close of the work of another famous woman, Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, especially with her project of the Chaoyangmen SOHO III in China.

Pedro Lourenço AW 2010 - Oscar Niemeyer

Both Reinaldo and Gloria are harden craftsmen who perfectly know how to use the futuristic shapes that attract the public's eyes. Pedro has grown up with this experience, and with his modernity and talent, he already masters the tools that other designers take years to learn. The young man is not a privileged, even if he is given an attention and an help ( his stylist is Brana Wolf, his protector, equally famous Brazilian designer Alexandre Herchcovitch ) some others fail to receive for their first step into the Industry. But even if he used the same room as Yves Saint Laurent, offering himself a unique jewel case to his first media-covered collection, the Brazilian gifted child knows he will have to work hard. He has received the tag of "New Nicolas Ghesquière" : already, the industry tries to format him.

Pedro Lourenço AW 2010 - The Pompidou Center of Metz by Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines

But if Pedro has got actually some likeness with the designer of Balenciaga, he is determined to impose his personal style. His Spring/Summer 2011's collection is already a new step toward assertiveness. This time, he chosed to marry a white and denatured leather to an almost invisible tulle, revealing bodies with the same elegance as the mashrabiyas used by French architect Jean Nouvel for his Louvre of Abu Dhabi. The collection and the museum are very similar : white, with an openwork design, almost austere, but also sensual, the dome of the building echoing the laid bare curves of the women. The unity is less rigid than his Autumn/Winter 2010's collection, and also closer to ready to wear.

Pedro Lourenço SS 2011 - The Louvre of Abu Dhabi by Jean Nouvel

But if the ghost of Balenciaga has to haunt Lourenço, I would prefer to associate his creative approach to those of the avant-gardist André Courrèges, a French designer well-known in the 60s for his structured yet liberating clothes. He is the one who established the miniskirt and wanted to create clothes which will make the women free, before the moral revolution of May 1968. The Asian purity of Pedro Lourenço's new collection follows the step of the black and white lines of Courrèges, heralding a promising fashion adventure.
The French timestamp is already on the South American young talent, since he has worked a month at the house of couture of Giambattista Valli. But it is very improbable that Pedro Lourenço would forget his Brazilian origins, he who honours this continent, still neglected by the almighty Westerner fashion world. Hopefully not for long ...

Pedro Lourenço SS 2011 - André Courrèges

The official website of Pedro Lourenço is not yet avaible but here's the address : http://www.pedrolourenco.com/ ( I hope they will correct the mistake of "Coming soon" with two m )
His parents' websites are working but they are only in portuguese, and his mother's is not updated ( the date is 2008 ). They definitely need a good spotlight.
http://www.reinaldolourenco.com/
http://www.gloriacoelho.com.br/

Fashion : Z-Mode, not just another alphabet letter

2010-12-01T14:51:00.001Z

During last London Fashion Week, my eyes have been caught by a new designer's collection. Right in the trend of the return of an old-fashioned elegance, brand Z-Mode brought simplicity and a very personal vision of contemporary feminity in a Fashion Week where sobriety was opportune.
Created by Lithuanian-born Victoria Rangayah, a heady brunette, the brand seems to be an antidote for the exuberant students of our Londonian Fashion Schools.

Indeed, Z-Mode is created by a woman, for us, the women.
After working for a denim manufacturer, Victoria Rangayah wanted to design something more feminine and elegant, according to her own desires. She spent 5 years in South Africa, developing her style, which she defines by the catchline "Opposites attract each other". Her goal is to mix the codes of fashion : those of feminity with masculinity, of the past with the present ( not yet the future, but the brand is young ).

The fabrics are also treated as cooking or chemistry ingredients, and the designer seems to play with them to create unuasual textures. Of course, it is not yet very punchy, but at least you can wear the clothes at work or in the streets without passing for an original. For the Spring/Summer 2011, the lines are romantics, the nude colour is at the rendez-vous, but we already feel that something bigger, fiercer is preparing. Now based in Manchester, Z-Mode has got everything to become one of the promising names of tomorrow. Can't wait to buy ...

http://www.zmode.co.uk/

Decoding : The artist, the editor and the blogger

2010-11-30T09:40:00.004Z

Some weeks ago, a picture surfaced on the web have created such a sensation. We could see Anna Wintour, the editor in chief of American Vogue with her iconic pageboy bob cut, except that it has been dyed, and she was now sporting animal print hair with some odd bunny hears.
But soon, viewers have realized that this picture was merely a very faithful painting, coming from the exuberant imagination of a Swiss artist, Saul Zanolari.
This 33 years old phenomenon is an already renowned digital magician, who excels in merging photos and paint and whose world would have amazed Sigmund Freud. Zanolari's creatures are insolent dollies with gigantic plastic heads, fake eyelashes which would make Katy Perry green with envy, and moustaches. Yes, you've read it right, moustaches, even pornstaches, especially worn by the most famous models of the world.

The surprising vision of Linda Evangelista as a udder with a moustache, which ranks directly after the work of Salvador Dali, will leave you flabbergasted, and quite excited. The burlesque and exhilarating show goes on with Kate Moss as a bird eating a worm, a devilish Marilyn and other funky fashion icons and drag-queens.
But what led the artist to strike at Anna Wintour ?
Sure, after all those years, the boss of Vogue needed a good make-over, she who has already been decked out with horns because she was suspected to be the devil out of the Devil wears Prada. But I am tempted to put another theory forward, purely far-fetched I admit.
Maybe Master Zanolari was celebrating the new Anna, the 2010's live wire vintage. Indeed, this year, the 61 years old editor has let her hair down ( everything is in the hair ) and offered us some memorable times, such as this delicious photo, taken during the Fashion Week.

But my favourite remains her speech at the Teen Vogue's Fashion University, the last 24 October, in New York. There, the most famous fashionista of the world told the kids that the best thing that could happen to them is to be fired. Ah. Oh, said the world.
But no, Anna Wintour didn't go berzek, nor is developing the first symptoms of Alzheimer, as some tactless journalists have murmured. Neither she is the devil, advising people to loose an insecure job they have struggled to get, in a period of crisis and unemployment. I think that the piece of advice was good and of the best intentions. Sure, life is challenging and the more challenge you get, the stronger you become. But that was working in the 80s, when the population was smaller, when there still was job offers and when the bosses weren't afraid that hiring would ruin their budget. Now that half of the graduates are unemployed after university, as well as almost 10% of the population, I think that Anna's tirade is very outdated.
But don't misunderstand me : I respect her.
I think that Anna Wintour is the grandmother every fashion blogger dreams to have. Ah, watching her knitting a D&G sweater under our Christmas tree, while eating the foie gras ice cream she has prepared just for us ...

But as every grandmother, we are nodding to her pieces of advice with a tender smile which means "That's cute, granny, but the world has changed, things are not the same anymore !".
I'd love to be fired. You know why ? Because it would mean that I have actually managed to get a first job. And by job, I mean a real one, with a salary and health insurance, not another internship. A job that would not lead me to precariousness because I have to pay a scandalously high rent just to live in the city, because all the good jobs are only in big and expensive cities. Being fired would mean that I have had the opportunity to prove my value at work. No, instead, all I can do is the photocopies, and writing the more I can, waiting for someone to have the courage to give me a chance. It is not as easy as Anna thinks. My father is not a tycoon of the British press, I didn't grow up in London nor get prestigious first jobs thanks to my family. I couldn't even pay the school of journalism !
But I don't complain, I am not jealous. I am aware that I have to work harder, to surpass myself everyday. I am an hard liner. Just like Anna Wintour. And I am also an agitator. Just like Saul Zanolari.
So, it is my time to give a piece of advice to Lady Wintour : you should consider following the make over tips of Saul because it would give you a brand new step into modernity and reality.
Oh, and perhaps you could also think about hiring more young writers ? My curriculum vitae can be found in the "Who's Sam ?" section under the header ...

http://www.saulzanolari.com/
Saul Zanolari's artwork is used with the agreement of the artist.
This article is featured on Saul's website here : http://www.saulzanolari.com/decoding-the-artist-the-editor-and-the-blogger/

Spotlight : Florrie under the apple tree

2010-11-29T10:30:00.000Z

Everyone knows that the competition is fierce in the industry between the models and the actresses to become the face of a brand. The great labels want famous faces in their advertising, in order to touch the fans. But when it comes to women and products dedicated to their beauty, the customers are more picky. Too sexy, an actress will produce jealousy and pique : "I will never look as good as her", but a model is not close enough of the daily women to provoke an identification. But the brands seem to have solved the problem : nearly an unknown person but who can touch many clients, the musician, man or woman, is perfect for the job.

She was no Timberlake, but when looking for a songstress for their new product, Nina L'Elixir, famous French perfumer Nina Ricci have fallen for a 21 years old British pop beginner. And yet, nothing predisposed Bristol-born Florrie Arnold to become a fashion icon. Singer, songwriter and drummer, the petite blonde was first a live musician for bands as various as Girls Aloud and Pet Shop Boys. But quickly, the fan of Jerry Lee Lewis and the Beatles have turned to a solo career in pop and electro music. Her sound, between Kim Wilde and Miss Kittin, seems very promising, and many trendy labels are now betting on her, after the release of her first EF, Introduction, which diffuses good vibes.

The voice is of velvet, the atmospheres very dancefloor and mind-blowing material, but there is still way to go before Florrie become the new Robyn. She's got time, she's only 21 and a world of possibilities is opening in front of her. For Nina Ricci, she covers a song of Blondie, "Sunday Girl". More fruity and girly than her usual work, Florrie perfectly enrolls the brand's identity. The video is full of that pink and romantic imagery loved by the perfumer, obsessed by the Original Apple. The young singer is touching of freshness : could it be the perfect springboard ?

But now that she is on the spotlights, Florrie needs to sharpen her fashion style. For the moment, she doesn't seem to be at her ease, hung on to her monochrome Chanel. But she'd better changes for more colorful and poptastic outfits, more adaptated to her music. I am not asking for another Lady Gaga, Kathy Perry, Roisin Murphy or Nicki Minaj ( please, no more Warhol-esque singers, we have enough ! ) but Florrie would deserve a more dynamic wardrobe, with more Versus and Versace dresses, of bright colors and prints. Let's hope she, or someone in her circle, would think about it ( or read my article, who knows ? ). Anyway, I wish a lot of luck and success to this young talent, who also allows us to hope : Fashion is not only for the "happy fews".

http://florrie.com/
photos Style.com and Matthieu Zazzo for Grazia.

Holidays Shopping : Queen of the Night

2010-11-26T09:21:00.001Z

Cate Blanchett in Elizabeth (2007)

To end the week in beauty, I will promise you the moon and the stars ... In this 4th part of my shopping for the holidays, you will be the Queen of the night, all in gilt, silver, arabesque, paisley and luxury ... At least, you will imagine you could be.
This theme is inspired by the majesty of British actress Cate Blanchett and her almost divine appearance. It is also directly influenced by the successful resumption of the brand Alexander McQueen by the talented Sarah Burton, clearly the Queen of the year. Two women, two atypical physique, but one taste for precious clothes. I have to admit that it was quite difficult to find affordable dresses for this theme, one point of gold and the prices are soaring. But, I think I have found enough gifts for your eyes to be forgiven ...

Alexander McQueen - H&M £19,99

Craving for McQueen but having a really low budget ? The genius of the industry, H&M, has got the solution : for less than £20, you can imitate the abounding golden leaves of this expensive piece of the master. Plus, the shape of the bustier dress is sexier and more appropriate for the long nights of holidays. I wonder how the world would be turning without H&M ? It is quite a mystery.

Kinder Aggugini at Young British Designers £650

This piece is only for the pleasure of the eyes, because, hey ! It is just £200 cheaper than a real McQueen ! I like the designs offered by Young British Designers but they could definitely make an effort on the prices ... Okay for helping young designers, but who is helping us ? Maybe one day, we will buy this dress, when Anna Wintour will stop saying that we need to get fired and will give us a job instead ...

Juicy Couture $378,00

The prices are lowering and we are breathing easy. Let's forget that we are (still) poor and let's admire the charms of this Juicy Couture dress with its delicate flounces and golden adornements. Yes, I know, you would still need a bank robbery, but in our dreams, we can wear what we want, can't we ?

Corey P at Sears $29,99

Finally, a friendly price ! But of course, you have noticed the absence of gold ... "The Silver Age" instead of "The Golden Age" : it is a consolation prize, but at least, someone is thinking about us. Corey P, for example, and Sears, who are offering us this delicious paisley V-neck dress for less than $30.

Marc by Marc Jacobs £140,00

My pick of the week is quite a surprise : I first thought that the price was wrong but I double-checked and I am very pleased to point out this gorgeous and reasonnable dress from genius Marc Jacobs. The royal laces print give it a touch of elegance and the shape is very rock'n'roll, perfect for a successful party and night.

Talented designers for a lower price : this dress is the evidence that something else is possible. Maybe the Industry needs to take us, humble customers, in consideration, and stop to sell us cotton at the price of gold. Because we are no queens, no duchesses. We are women dealing with the crisis, the unemployement, the raise of the rent, families, health issues ... Yes, we are not rich enough, but our opinion is counting. We could actually be the decision-maker of tomorrow ... So, we need to be handled carefully. Like the princess and the pea ...

Interview with : Kay Weston of Push It Magazine ( part 2 )

2010-11-25T07:42:00.002Z

Ann Demeulemeester - Nilupul Hettaiarachchige

If you haven’t read the first part of this new segment, I advise you to do it. You will learn more about an inspiring young person named Kay Weston, the Contributing Print Editor of Push It magazine, who has a lot to say about fashion journalism and the industry in general. This second part will incidentally be devoted to Kay’s view on fashion and to her personal favourite things.

In some previous articles, I have already questioned a particular phenomenon of fashion, that is to say the comeback of past decades in nowadays’ collections. So I have asked Kay if she thought that fashion was constantly repeating itself or, instead, if new things were genuinely created. “With fashion, you can’t reinvent the wheel completely,” she answers. “In a certain sense, fashion is quite cyclical. The same trends do keep coming around, but there’s always a different ‘take’ on it each time it re-emerges.”
She also slips in that the trend of vintage has somehow changed the deal, “it’s not so much of an issue if you do wear something from a previous season. It’s becoming a lot more relaxed. It’s not so much what you wear, it’s how you wear it.”

Lina Österman - Hannah Marshall

But, Miss Weston definitely believes that the industry is moving forward. Personally, she is not the kind of person who likes to reflect on the past in terms of fashion, and she doesn’t think that a time period or a country should deserve more attention than another. She is rather thrilled by new designers and she praises initiatives such as those of NEWGEN, Fashion East and the Vauxhall Talent Scout, who are “so important in launching the careers of designers who perhaps otherwise wouldn’t have had a chance to bring their designs to the masses.”
Kay is confident about the future of United Kingdom in this area. “I do think that the UK has some impressive and diverse design talent, and both London Fashion Week and Graduate Fashion Week really demonstrate this.”
Speaking of young talents, she is glad that they are receiving more support and media coverage, “as it can be incredibly difficult to make your name as a designer, especially right now with the recession.” I guess that she gives her approval to the website ‘Young British Designers’, another initiative that proves that the British fashion industry is looking to the future.

Rick Owens - Laura Theiss

“What marks out a good designer is [his] ability to take something that has been done before and put [his] own stamp on it”, she says. “The really great thing about emerging designers today is that they are utterly unafraid of pushing boundaries, experimenting with ideas and challenging people’s perceptions of fashion.”

Her favourite young designers all fit that description, and she jokes about how her goth roots influence her picks, who all work incorporate darker elements into their designs. “They’re not exactly ‘new’, but I love Viktor and Rolf for their innovation,” she starts. Following the Dutch famous designers is a list of the rising stars of the moment. Gareth Pugh, of course, and Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester. The other names may be less known for you: there are the avant-gardists Lina Österman and her rock’n’roll rag dolls’ silhouettes, Californian Rick Owens, known for his subversive point of view, the London designer Hannah Marshall and her sharp and aesthetic creations, and also the Finnish designer Heikki Salonen, who mixes a certain solemnity with boldness.

Derek Lawlor - Gabriella Marina Gonzales

“I love knitwear too,” she continues, “so I’m going to say Derek Lawlor, Laura Theiss, Craig Lawrence and Mark Fast.” She insists on Markus Lupfer’s name being added to the list, even confessing that her dream is “to own one of his sweaters, I’m obsessed with them.”

I can’t help saying that the creations of Lawlor remind me of the liquorice rolls of my childhood, which is not necessarily negative. The sweaters and dresses of English designer Lawrence are truly Dantesque, with some likeness with Sandra Backlund (you can read my article about her ). His fellow-citizen Mark Fast is more obsessed with transparency and crochet. It is pointless to introduce Theiss and Lupfer, well-known in the industry for their cunning and vivid creations, considered as fashion statements. In Kay’s list, there are also the fascinating newcomers Katie Eary and her love for Vanitas ( another of my article you can consult ), plus Cuban-American and London-based futuristic designer Gabriella Marina Gonzalez.
Also quoted : Ziad Ghanem and his ‘creatures’, the promising yet tongue-twister Nilupul Hettaiarachchige, shoemaker Atalanta Weller and Swiss-German Stefanie Biggel.

“That’s loads, isn’t it?!” laughs Kay. Don’t worry- the more, the merrier, and I mean it. The Contributing Print Editor is not skinflint with her answers, and her passion is visible, which is very pleasant to see !

Ziad Ghanem - Katie Eary

Since we were talking of clothes, I took the opportunity of asking her some tips for a warm and classy winter : “Winter is actually one of the best times of year to experiment with your look,” she tells me. “Layering up to keep warm means that you can work several trends at once, and add in extras such as over-the-knee socks, patterned tights, hats and scarves to brighten up an outfit.” Obviously, she is obsessed with knitwear, which she says “is also great for playing around with textures. There’s no rule that says you have to stick to boring jumpers. This year there have been a lot of variations available in terms of fabrics, prints, embellishments and cuts.

Atalanta Weller for House of Holland - Markus Lupfer

And a good coat is an investment, so choose something to see you through several seasons. Faux fur or feathers are always a winner.” Kay seems incidentally to have her eye on a specific coat : “a gorgeous faux fur coat from Miss Selfridge !” she confesses. Now we’ve got the picture !
I am really glad that Kay Weston took the time to answer my questions in so much detail. I hope you have found this first interview as interesting as I’ve found it. There will be more to come hopefully, if I meet people as open and nice as Kay!

Miss Selfridges

http://www.anndemeulemeester.be/
http://www.linaosterman.com/
http://www.rickowens.eu/
http://www.hannahmarshall.com/
http://www.heikkisalonen.com/
http://dereklawlor.com/
http://www.lauratheiss.com/
http://www.craiglawrence.co.uk/
http://www.markfast.net/
http://www.katieeary.co.uk/
http://gabriellamarinagonzalez.com/
http://ziadghanem.co.uk/
http://www.atalantaweller.com/

Interview with : Kay Weston of Push It Magazine ( part 1 )

2010-11-24T12:59:00.001Z

Kay Weston

Who are those people who will make the fashion of tomorrow? You, me? It is a bit vague, isn’t it? So, I have decided to create a new segment in my blog, dedicated to the persons who are acting, either in the limelight or backstage, to shape the future ofthe fashion industry.

Kay Weston caught my eye, not only for our many mutual interests, but also because of her inspiring career and her smart view on the industry. At only 23, Kay has got an impressive curriculum vitae. “I still find it difficult to believe that I’ve done so much, yet I only graduated from university this year!” she admits.
And yet, she grew up very far from the world of fashion: “Growing up, nobody I knew was into [it] or even reading [...] magazines, so I was never surrounded by it or particularly interested in it. Fashion was of little relevance to me.” Mainstream fashion, perhaps, but the Brit girl already had her own style: gothic, with “the whole black hair, black lipstick and white face look”. She seems to apologize for the “dubious things” she wore, “all of which I did eventually grow out of”, but she doesn’t have to- most of the present fashionistas have roots in the underground fashion : Leigh Lezark, Daphne Guinness ... Not to pretend that I can be featured in that prestigious list, but at 16, I looked like Siouxsie Sioux and was devoted to the 70s punk clothes. Those influences enrich someone, and are still part of Kay’s current style. “I still love heavy metal music and there are a lot of rock-chick elements on my look”, adds the blond beauty, who can easily be seen with “loads of black eyeliner” and her Doc Martens, even if she admits that “on the whole, it’s quite casual”.

Now that you could recognize her on the streets, it is time to tell her adventure, which started at the University of Sheffield, a culturally dynamic city in the north of England. “I loved words and was always reading and writing, even from a very young age. I knew that I wanted to do something with writing.” That’s the reason why she opted for a degree in journalism, but also teamed with one in German, due to a passion for foreign languages. “Learn another language”, she advises. “Being fluent in a second or third language will put you miles ahead of anyone else looking to get into the industry and give you a better understanding of how your own language works.” University was an important time for Kay. There, she explains that she “had the time and guidance to really develop [her] writing skills.” She also started to freelance, from student media to independent magazines, she soon reached national and international levels. Her real first encounter with fashion journalism occured when she started to work with AGENT2, an ambitious digital magazine created in 2009. This first apnoea in fashion was a revelation. “I found that I enjoyed it and was fascinated by the industry and designers, so I started to move more and more into that field until it became a specialism.” She went from Fashion Editor to Director. Soon, things were quickening for the Sheffield student. She wrote for British newcomers Fault and Push It magazines, but also for the website of the famous British newspaper The Independent, and the American fashion magazine Chaos (which might have seduced her because of its metal inspiration, as it recently chose a song by German band Rammstein for its introductory video). She also lived and worked as a writer in Germany, writing in her second language.

Ein Traum in Erdbeerfolie (2009)

Her travels are also a very important part of her personality. “Travelling has influenced my views on fashion, because when you’re exposed to other cultures it does leave you more openminded, and not just about style. When I lived in Germany, I went to a press screening of a Marco Wilms documentary called ‘Ein Traum in Erdbeerfolie’, which was about the main protagonists of the underground fashion scene in East Berlin before the wall came down. I loved that for these people, fashion became a form of escapism. Even under an oppressive regime such as that [of the German Democratic Republic], creativity thrived and fashion brought people together. I found that really inspiring.”
She has got a lot of those anedoctes you have when you explore the world. For example, she remembers a trip to Macedonia where, she says, the disparities of wealth are startling. “I remember being on a bus in Macedonia, travelling three hours from Ohrid to Skopje, and driving through what could best be described as shanty towns. It was obvious that the people living in them were very poor. But when the bus reached Skopje, I remember looking out of the window and seeing a huge billboard advertisement for Miss Sixty in Macedonian. It’s quite surreal.” But Eastern Europe still holds much appeal for her because of its speed of development. “I’d like to spend more time over there. Armenia, Kosovo and Georgia are next on my list.”

Push It Magazine

Now settled between London and Birmingham, Kay is working as a Contributing Print Editor for Push It Magazine (digital-only at first, it is now a rapidly growing, internationally-distributed print magazine), one of the most promising contemporary publications of this decade in Great Britain. The main goal of Push It is to bring you luxury, a unique perspective on fashion and arts in general, and a sneak peek into the forthcoming trends.

From this enviable position, Kay is now able to give us some tips for success. “Fashion writing is generally regarded as the lowest form of journalism, so be prepared to have to fight hard to prove yourself,” she says. “You need to have an awful lot of patience too. It takes a long time to break into the industry and there are no short-cuts to success. Absolutely nothing will be handed to you on a plate, so be prepared to work hard and work for free.”
She adds that journalism, especially fashion journalism, is not the gold mine we tend to imagine. But don’t be disheartened, she has got some good advice. “The only way to succeed is to intern, do work experience, write for websites and magazines and prove your passion as much as you can. Even when the rejection letters are piling up, persevere. Resilience is crucial in this industry. Put yourself out there as much as possible and make sure people are aware of your work.” She also insists on networking, which is, according to her, a good way to become known. “So much depends on who you know, so talk to everybody, never be rude to anyone- even if they are rude to you- and ask for help if you need it. More importantly, actually listen to feedback and act on it. It’s the only way you will improve. And learn to write properly. So many people are tempted to get into fashion journalism for the freebies or glamorous lifestyle, but the truth is that if you can’t string a sentence together, you won’t get anywhere. Editors don’t have a lot of time on their hands and are under pressure to get jobs done quickly, so we don’t want to have to be spending hours correcting grammar or spelling errors, or having to constantly fact-check details. We also like people who have a steady stream of interesting and new ideas. For aspiring writers, it’s important to devour everything and keep your ear to the ground. Read fashion magazines and blogs, always be on the lookout for exciting new designers, keep on top of trends and get to know as many people in the industry as possible.” Words of wisdom!

Now that we know Kay Weston better and that we have all the insider knowledge to try to steal her job (don’t be afraid, Kay, I am joking!), it’s time for an in-depth conversation on modern fashion. But, in order to read it, you will have to wait for the second part of the interview !

http://www.pushitmagazine.com/
http://www.agent2magazine.com/
http://www.chaos-mag.com/

Trend : African Prints

2010-11-23T08:20:00.002Z

L.A.M.B. S/S 2011

Prints were back in trend for a while : exotic flowers and coconut trees in Summer 2010, animal prints in Autumn 2010 ... For the next step, it seemed logical to plunge back into our cultural roots and bring back the attention on those people we'd prefer to forget because some said they weren't enough glamour. Native Americans, Southern Americans, and especially Africans are now taking their revenge on our Westerner fashion industry. The pioneers of this mouvement were fashion iconoclasts Marc Jacobs ( Marc by Marc Jacobs Summer 2010 ) and Jean Paul Gaultier. The French designer married futuristic clothes with traditional African headgear.

Jean-Paul Gaultier A/W 2010

But, oddly, things triggered off because of Gwen Stefani. Indeed, the singer launched her Spring Summer 2011 collection in September and there, it was an avalanche of African prints. Asymetrical dresses, blazer jackets, drapes, hats, jeans, necklaces, the influences are here but still a bit vague. It still could be opportunism more than a real research of aesthetism ( you know how much I consider celebs' attents to make real fashion ). But Africa haven't said its last word. Thanks to designers of all backgrounds, the prints, looking more authentic, were going to invade our casual wardrobe.

3 Suisses S/S 2011

The most notable finds of the next season are from various horizons. There is new collection of French mail order and online retailer the 3 Suisses ( http://www.3suisses.com/ie/eng/page.aspx for International order )with elegant and stylish pieces, adapting ethnic prints for office and rather classic clothes. Back to luxury, you have Haute Couture dresses from Ghanaian designer Christie Brown ( http://www.christiebrownonline.com/ ) who offer a mix of contemporary dresses and girly silhouettes.

Christie Brown

Let's quote another celeb : it seems that British rapper M.I.A. is also in fashion ( yes, I was suprised too, I who can't do two things at the same time without spoiling one, I am always amazed by those Shiva-esque artists ). You thought that Africa and techno were far away from each others ? M.I.A. streetwear ( http://shop.miauk.com/ ) is proving the contrary. Not my cup of tea, but the leggings are neat.

M.I.A. Apparel

But, suddenly, I have a dream. I dream of a world where designers wouldn't steal the patterns of some tribes to make money without their knowing. I dream of a world were those tribes, those countries who deserve to have the social dynamism we have, would build fairtrade factories and design studios in order to work with Westerners designers on an equal footing. They could sell their fabrics, imagine new ones, and transform their life in a more honorable one, far away from the misery and the dependance we are plunging them into. I'd love to see an African Fashion Week, and more talented designers such as London-based Duro Olowu (http://www.duroolowu.com/ ) and Christie Brown.

Duro Olowu S/S 2011

Why couldn't Africa dress Europe and United States ? The only life we've offered them till now was exile, why couldn't we make possible for them to stay in their native homes and live a life equal to ours ? Yes, I know, it is turning to be more political than fashionable. But I don't care, I am like that, seeing further than things.
But let's come back to our shopping tips : for winter, there is the knitwear collection of "king of prints" Desigual ( http://www.desigual.com/ ), and even if many different cultural prints are mixed together without care, it stays colourful and it's well-meant.

Desigual A/W 2010

I don't know how much is the shipping for your country, but here in Europe it is okay, and I am definitely thinking about this gorgeous purse from 3 Suisses, with this pattern constituted of sequins and pearls. Very ethnic-chic and looking authentic. Pending the changes of our world, let's pay a tribute to this mysterious and intense continent.

3 Suisses S/S 2011

Holidays Shopping : Lucy in the night sky with diamonds

2010-11-19T13:24:00.005Z

Tilda Swinton

The ones who know my other blog "Midnight Blue Hawk" might have guessed my love for dark blue. Indeed, it is my favourite colour, so I have decided to devote the 3rd part of my Holidays Shopping list to navy blue dresses. To my mind, the person who embodies and celebrates the most this colour is independant actress and filmmaker Tilda Swinton. Mysterious, intense, this particular shade of blue that is at the same time elegant, unique and stunning, really reflects the singularity of the Scottish muse. It also reminds me of a painting of Dante Gabriel Rossetti, and there again, the woman is seductive and cold at the same time. Add Kate Middleton to the list, and you will be convinced of the power of dark blue ... So, if you want to add a little bit of enigma and fantasy to your holidays, here are some excellent dresses ...

Project D £290,00

Let's start by the most expensive. Not really if you consider its beauty and quality. This delighting Grecian dress will emphasize any silhouette with its sensual lenght and its naked shoulder. The sober and delicate ornaments are very tasty and fabulously enhance the colour. Project D produces gorgeous formal dresses, and you will find real treasures for reasonable prices. £290 at Harvey Nichols.

Love Moschino at Yoox $195,00

This one is in sale at Yoox, so you'd better hurry up if you like it. I'm always found of Moschino's designs and this cute retro dress doesn't fall short of the brand's reputation. I really like the narrowed waist and the gold details. Classic yes, but the elegance is timeless. And the price, for Moschino, is really great.

Rare Opulence at Topshop £95,00

If you wish something a bit more festal and dazzling, you will certainly crush on that marvel as I did. Obviously, the brand Rare Opulence have decided to make our dreams come true. There is everything in that dress : it is sexy, fashionable, smart and sophisticated. Or to make it shorter : WOW ... It is a real starry sky, and you will be the star of the party for sure. What did I say in the last article ? Oh yes, God saves Topshop. Allow me to insist ...

Vero Moda 29,00 euros

For smaller budgets, Danish ( yes I know, the name doesn't sound Danish but it is ) brand Vero Moda offers a very cute dress for a wonderfully low price. I really like the fact that the waistline is set off by these delicate lines of silver. The petticoat is also very attractive, and, once again, reminds of a constellation. It is simple yet gracious, and for less than £25,00. You can find this pearl in online retailers. If you don't find it, you can buy other beautiful ( dark blue ) dresses on Vero Moda online shop.

Motel £39,00

And, finally, my traditional pick of the day ... This time, it is this gorgeous dress from brand Motel. The alliance between the blue and the golden floral details is perfect. In other colours, the dress is unremarkable, but with dark blue, it turns into a very sexy and elegant party dress. The price is great too, so, let's go !

By the way, if you would like more gold, more luxury, I am sure you will be soon ecstatic : my next article is coming soon, with a lot more marvels to buy, to cherish and to dream about ... Wait and see !

Decoding : Fashion previews, appetizers or appetite suppressant ?

2010-11-18T14:55:00.003Z

The indigestion came as fast as expected. Few days after the launch of the limited collection of French label Lanvin for H&M, Internet is completely phagocytosed by the pictures : every blog is talking about it to such an overwhelming extent that the website Independant Fashion Blogger made an article about the problem of the repeating topics. The effect is similar to these songs which invade the radios and seem to capture our minds for many days. The goal, of course, is to lead us to the closest store to buy the more we could. The principle has to do with the dogs of Pavlov, the post-hypnotic suggestions and the appetizers. The funny thing about Lanvin is that, in France, it is also a brand of chocolates, so the food metaphor is quite appropriate. When we are hungry, just a little bit of food make us want to have more, especially if it is chocolate. It is inevitable : according to writer Stendhal, it's the desire that creates the object of the desire. So, designers offer us collections because we are starving for them. H&M is perfectly aware that most of us have the dream to buy designers clothes, and they have known that their concept will be a gold mine. And we acted just as they expected : every time they launch a designer's collection, we are rushing to their stores to grab little pieces of luxury. But the good question is : are we really starving for Lanvin ? Perhaps we desire it just because it means luxury ( and it is French; it is well-known that all the countries think that France is the ultimate : spend some time in France and you will wonder why ). Philosopher Descartes remarked that "often, passion make us believe some things are better and more desirable than they are". Nothing to add.

The Swedish company is incredibly clever. Not only she drives us to buy clothes we are not genuinely wanting, playing on our desire of possession, but they manage to turn us into free publicists. All that bloggers who have spread the photos have not been paid, whereas they convert the event into the main subject of conversation in the whole world !
But let's come back to our meal. Now, everyone have had chocolate, but too much chocolate as they saw the pictures ten thousand times ... And the appetizers may have turned into appetite suppressants. I don't want to rush to my H&M store to buy Lanvin : indeed, the more I have seen the clothes the more I have thought that they were not that exciting. Plus, the idea to fight with a crowd of lobotomised and overexcited gals over a t-shirt is not my vision of glamour. "If desire blooms, possession fade everything" said writer Proust. I have all the photos ( which are not very good by the way, those models are scary ), why would I buy the clothes, especially if I can buy better ones without stress and agitation ? But maybe am I the worst nightmare of the marketing researchers : of course, I follow my own tastes ...

Now, Lanvin is ( nearly ) over but Tom Ford is using the same process : great, the photos are better and the clothes look gorgeous ... But it is just the beggining : wait to see them in every blog, every mag, and you may change your mind. And who will be next ? Would our years become a stream of previews, spoilers, foretastes ? Hey, we are not going to keep our chin up ! After indigestion, it will be nausea ... That's not chic ! Where's pleasure in that ? We are neither robots nor living Mastercards ... It is time to comeback to a more peaceful fashion before it collapses.
I found the designers who keep their collections secret untill the release much more clever. The effect of surprise bring more pleasure, and fuel our need to possess. Then, we are free to desire. After all, I think that philosopher Pascal will have the last word, he who thought that we were not genuinely searching for the things, but in fact searching for the "research of those things" ... Loving fashion rather than loving buying, isn't it the real definition of a real fashionista ?

Photos Steven Meisel ( Tom Ford ).